Weeknight Dinner: Pork Tenderloin with Apples, Thyme and Rosemary
According to the unsurpassable wisdom of Fannie Farmer, "nearly every part of the pig is edible and delicious." While we respect those who for reasons of diet or belief don't eat pork, for those of us who do, it develops into a practice, and often a philosophy, of its own. To some, pork is the smoky hocks with which they flavor their beans and their greens, or the bacon they will find almost any excuse to include in almost any dish. A Southern sloppy top wouldn't be the same without pulled pork lounging underneath the cole slaw. Pork is a standard of Chinese take-out, whether mu shu, sweet and sour or lo mein. Any child of the mid-century American suburbs remembers pork chop night, where chops were crusty from a dusting of seasoned flour and a quick sear in hot oil, or creamy from a bath of milk and thyme and slow roast in a hot oven. And then there are those (you know who you are) to whom pork is all of the above, plus a bowl of knuckles swimming in broth, or trotters tossed with bitter greens, or even a suckling, wrapped in hay and cooked in a pit.
The finest cut of the pig is the tenderloin. It's aptly named: because of its location anatomically (deep inside the loin), it develops little if any sinew, and this in turn makes it tender. Like all deep cuts, the tenderloin can be costly, but as an occasional indulgence it costs no more than a good steak.
Here is a recipe for a weeknight roasted tenderloin, perfect for the lengthening shadows of an autumn evening. A quick sear in olive oil creates a crust which works with an oven braise of white wine to create a tender, richly flavorful main dish. Astringent rosemary and lush thyme assert themselves in a swift reduction of the pan juices, counterpointed by sweet sauteed apples. Serve with an autumn salad of blue cheese and arugula, and -- what the hell, you worked hard today -- a glass of chilled white wine.
Pork Loin with Apples, Thyme and Rosemary
Pork tenderloins usually weigh 6 - 8 ounces; this recipe uses two to create four servings. The recipe can be halved; the cooking time should remain the same. For safety's sake, a meat thermometer inserted into the meat should read 160 degrees before serving -- don't worry about the high temperature; the braise will keep the meat moist.
Two pork tenderloins, 6- 8 ounces each, one pound total
3/4 cup dry white wine
Several stems fresh rosemary
Several stems fresh thyme
Salt (Greek sea salt works well)
Freshly ground black pepper
2 - 3 sweet apples, such as fuji, honeycrisp or jonagold
1 tablespoon butter
Extra virgin olive oil
1. Remove the tenderloins from their protective packaging and rinse in cool water. Pat dry and set aside on a clean surface to rest.
2. Place the herbs on the bottom of a roasting pan big enough to hold both tenderloins.
3. Heat the oven to 425 degrees.
4. Place a non-stick skillet over medium-high heat. Add a three count of extra virgin olive oil to the skillet.
5. Once the oil beings to shimmer, place a dry tenderloin in the oil. Season with several grindings of fresh black pepper. Sear, using tongs to turn the tenderloin until all sides are darkened.
6. Place the seared tenderloin on the bed of herbs and repeat step four with the second tenderloin. Place the second seared tenderloin on the bed of herbs. Season with salt and a few more grindings of pepper.
7. Carefully pour wine into the roasting pan.
8. Cover roasting pan tightly with a layer of aluminum foil, creasing the foil tightly around the rim of the pan. Don't skip this step; use the foil even the pan has a lid. Place pan into oven.
9. While the roast starts cooking slice the apples into quarters from stem end to base end. Cut each quarter into halves; cut a half moon in the center of each eighth to remove the seeds and their core.
10. Place the apples in the fat left over in the skillet. Use a rubber spatula to gently turn the apples to coat completely with the fat. Leave on the stovetop but don't turn on the heat.
11. After forty minutes, remove the pan from the oven. Carefully open the foil on the side of the pan pan farthest from you, keeping your hands and face out of the way of the escaping steam. Once the steam has subsided, check each tenderloin with a meat thermometer; each should reach an internal temperature 160 degrees. If they haven't, reseal the foil and return to the oven, checking again in ten minutes.
12. Once the tenderloins reach an internal temperature of 160 degrees, remove the foil from the pan. Place the tenderloins on a clean cutting surface and tent with the foil. Let rest for ten minutes.
13. Add the butter to the apples in the skillet. Turn heat to medium high and saute, stirring occasionally until tender, approximately five minutes. Once ready, transfer the apples to the serving platter.
14. Pour the juices from the bottom of the roasting pan through a sieve into the skillet. Heat on high, stirring with the rubber spatula, until pan juices have reduced; about two minutes. Pour reduction into a serving bowl.
15. Carve the tenderloin into slices and arrange on the platter with the sauteed apples. Season lightly with salt and freshly ground black pepper. Serve with the reduced pan juices.
The finest cut of the pig is the tenderloin. It's aptly named: because of its location anatomically (deep inside the loin), it develops little if any sinew, and this in turn makes it tender. Like all deep cuts, the tenderloin can be costly, but as an occasional indulgence it costs no more than a good steak.
Here is a recipe for a weeknight roasted tenderloin, perfect for the lengthening shadows of an autumn evening. A quick sear in olive oil creates a crust which works with an oven braise of white wine to create a tender, richly flavorful main dish. Astringent rosemary and lush thyme assert themselves in a swift reduction of the pan juices, counterpointed by sweet sauteed apples. Serve with an autumn salad of blue cheese and arugula, and -- what the hell, you worked hard today -- a glass of chilled white wine.
Pork Loin with Apples, Thyme and Rosemary
Pork tenderloins usually weigh 6 - 8 ounces; this recipe uses two to create four servings. The recipe can be halved; the cooking time should remain the same. For safety's sake, a meat thermometer inserted into the meat should read 160 degrees before serving -- don't worry about the high temperature; the braise will keep the meat moist.
Two pork tenderloins, 6- 8 ounces each, one pound total
3/4 cup dry white wine
Several stems fresh rosemary
Several stems fresh thyme
Salt (Greek sea salt works well)
Freshly ground black pepper
2 - 3 sweet apples, such as fuji, honeycrisp or jonagold
1 tablespoon butter
Extra virgin olive oil
1. Remove the tenderloins from their protective packaging and rinse in cool water. Pat dry and set aside on a clean surface to rest.
2. Place the herbs on the bottom of a roasting pan big enough to hold both tenderloins.
3. Heat the oven to 425 degrees.
4. Place a non-stick skillet over medium-high heat. Add a three count of extra virgin olive oil to the skillet.
5. Once the oil beings to shimmer, place a dry tenderloin in the oil. Season with several grindings of fresh black pepper. Sear, using tongs to turn the tenderloin until all sides are darkened.
6. Place the seared tenderloin on the bed of herbs and repeat step four with the second tenderloin. Place the second seared tenderloin on the bed of herbs. Season with salt and a few more grindings of pepper.
7. Carefully pour wine into the roasting pan.
8. Cover roasting pan tightly with a layer of aluminum foil, creasing the foil tightly around the rim of the pan. Don't skip this step; use the foil even the pan has a lid. Place pan into oven.
9. While the roast starts cooking slice the apples into quarters from stem end to base end. Cut each quarter into halves; cut a half moon in the center of each eighth to remove the seeds and their core.
10. Place the apples in the fat left over in the skillet. Use a rubber spatula to gently turn the apples to coat completely with the fat. Leave on the stovetop but don't turn on the heat.
11. After forty minutes, remove the pan from the oven. Carefully open the foil on the side of the pan pan farthest from you, keeping your hands and face out of the way of the escaping steam. Once the steam has subsided, check each tenderloin with a meat thermometer; each should reach an internal temperature 160 degrees. If they haven't, reseal the foil and return to the oven, checking again in ten minutes.
12. Once the tenderloins reach an internal temperature of 160 degrees, remove the foil from the pan. Place the tenderloins on a clean cutting surface and tent with the foil. Let rest for ten minutes.
13. Add the butter to the apples in the skillet. Turn heat to medium high and saute, stirring occasionally until tender, approximately five minutes. Once ready, transfer the apples to the serving platter.
14. Pour the juices from the bottom of the roasting pan through a sieve into the skillet. Heat on high, stirring with the rubber spatula, until pan juices have reduced; about two minutes. Pour reduction into a serving bowl.
15. Carve the tenderloin into slices and arrange on the platter with the sauteed apples. Season lightly with salt and freshly ground black pepper. Serve with the reduced pan juices.
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