Cranberry Sauce

Cranberries have a place at the Thanksgiving table because they symbolize autumn, and because they are native to the north American continent. These wild berries, called sassamanesh by Native peoples, were an integral ingredient in pemmicanana, a mix of nuts, berries and dried venison on which the people depended during lean times. Sassamanesh were also used medicinally and as a dye. Other Native names included ibimi and atoqua. The American term "cranberry" is actually "crane berry," so named because to early German and Dutch settlers the flower of this plant resembled the head and bill of a crane.

As a native food used by Native peoples, cranberry history is tied to American history. The cranberry harvest symbolizes plenitude, as flooded bogs stretch for acres in every direction in garnet lakes awaiting harvest. Cranberries are popularly believed to have been served at the first Thanksgiving, along with wild turkey, wild rice and squash. Cranberry sauce was served to Union troops during the Civil War. The familiar canned version was first produced commercially in 1912 by the Cape Cod Cranberry Company -- now known as good ol' Ocean Spray.

No offense to the canned sauce of thousands of tables, but cranberry sauce is easy to make -- in fact, doing so is one of the easiest tasks of the Thanksgiving feast. If you're so inspired, here is a fail-safe recipe for whole berry cranberry sauce. This version can be home canned -- imagine opening it on a snowy winter weekend, to accompany roasted fowl or beef. The gemlike color and distinctive bite will recall that busy, fulfilling time when you gathered with family and friends for this important holiday set aside for that most important of rituals: gratitude.

Cranberry Sauce

Don't skip the step of sorting through the cranberries; it only takes a couple of minutes and the result is fresher and brighter sauce. This recipe can be doubled -- consider doing so if you're feeding a large crowd. Don't forget to set some aside some for home canning or freezing.

One bag fresh cranberries

One navel orange, preferably organic

1 cup white sugar

1 cup water

1 teaspoon cinnamon

1/2 teaspoon ground cloves

1. Clean the orange. If organic, it should not be coated with produce wax and will just require rinsing under cold water. If not organic, rinse well under warm water or use a commercial produce cleaner (available in the market in the fruit aisle). Set cleaned orange aside on a paper towel to dry.

2. Cut open the bag and empty the cranberries into a bowl. Set a colander beside the bowl. Pick through the cranberries, moving the good ones into the colander. Each berry should feel hard; don't worry about color as some pink or white cranberries are acceptable as long as most are deep garnet. Discard any that have gone soft, along with any residual leaves or stems if any. With practice, you will be able to do this very quickly, by touch.

3. Rinse the cranberries and set aside to drain.

4. Combine the water and sugar in a large non-reactive pan. Set over medium-high heat and bring to boil, whisking to dissolve sugar.

5. While the water is coming to the boil, remove the zest from the orange onto a small plate or a piece of waxed paper. A microplane zester works well. Alternatively, use a small, sharp paring knife to remove just the orange part of the skin in strips. Line the strips up and cut lengthwise into tiny ribbons. Cut across the tiny ribbons to form dice.

6. When the water is at full boil, add the spices and the orange zest. Whisk to combine.

7. Add the cranberries to the boiling water. Stir with a silicone spatula or wooden spoon.

8. Reduce heat to medium. Allow to boil uncovered, until the berries begin to burst and sauce thickens, approximately 10 minutes.

9. If canning, fill clean, sterilized jars with sauce and process as directed by manufacturer. If serving, transfer sauce to a cranberry mold or serving bowl; cover with plastic wrap and chill until serving time.