Wines for Thanksgiving
Among oenophiles, two of the most popular topics for discussion are wine pairings for asparagus and for turkey. This is because these two flavors dare the palate, and therefore the resourcefulness of the sommelier, with their complexities. Asparagus may or may not be on your Thanksgiving table (if so, I like Jay McInerney's pairing suggestion), but with Thanksgiving approaching, I thought I'd share some suggestions for wines to pair with turkey.
Conventional wisdom pairs turkey with sauvignon blanc, whose citrusy character ideally attains minerality in a balance which does not conflict with the rich flavors of turkey. Some sauvignon blancs are too light-headed for this task, but an assertive pour works very nicely. Try New Zealand's Babich Marlborough, an eminently drinkable and easily available sauvignon blanc with a high, fruity top and a strong mineral streak down the middle. California's Beckman Santa Ynez attains a lovely balance of rich, ripe fruit and dusky mineral; think of a gold-tipped cigarette swathed in a peach fuzz wrapper.
It has a bad reputation in many circles, but chardonnay is not a dirty word. This grape has been mishandled in its day, being bulk-produced for jug wines that were over-soaked and over-oaked. In the right vintner's hands, chardonnay is a revelation, as sultry as the sunsets which it evokes. Although sleeker chardonnays have been a recent trend, most are known for being full-bodied, a characteristic that marries well to the bounty of Thanksgiving table. Try Ridge Santa Cruz Estate, a buxom chardonnay perfumed with florals and spice, which is given just enough oak to emphasize its curves. Reasonably priced Franciscan Napa Valley is a direct hit of the buttery apple flavor you expect from chardonnay, set apart by a toasty top note that you should.
In my experience, scoffers are silenced upon their first sip of a good rose. Done right, rose is the coquette of wines, and how could you not want one of those at your party? Like all flirts, rose is as moody as it is teasing, so pair carefully, looking for a rose whose characteristic fruity bloom compliments some serious bodywork. Mas de Gourgonnier les Baux de Provence opens with notes of white tea and roses, before evidencing almost all the flavors in the berry patch. It it sounds too delicate, just wait for the backflip of fern and wet rocks that is the perfect riverside setting for game fowl. Domaine Ott Clair de Noir in the well-known urn-shaped bottle is an icon of rose, with clean, berry-scented flavors that agree with almost any palate, making this the classic introduction to the world of rose.
Because Thanksgiving is a meal of complex and sometimes competing tastes, white blends work well. Many drinkers disagree with me, but I find Conundrum agreeable in context. True, the five grapes used to blend this California table wine scuffle like siblings, but the multi-textured result, heavy on fruit and hazelnut, is well suited for a bounteous table. The show-stopping Bonny Doon vineyard's Le Cigare Blanc is a spritely balancing act of tropical flavors, cream and fresh straw. It's somehow gruff and sleek at once, and that it pairs nicely with poultry and green vegetables is part of a surprise that is, I think, built into the experience.
Finally, like any guest who wants to attend, reds should have a seat at the Thanksgiving table. Versatile, welcoming pinot noir is the common pairing; for it, I always evangelize the wonderfully drinkable Castle Rock. La Crema is reasonably priced and widely available, offering a light bouquet that opens to a gemlike flavor of cherries touched with cinnamon. Both of these California pinot pours cost under twenty dollars a bottle, making them great choices if your task on Thanksgiving Day is to bring the wine.
Conventional wisdom pairs turkey with sauvignon blanc, whose citrusy character ideally attains minerality in a balance which does not conflict with the rich flavors of turkey. Some sauvignon blancs are too light-headed for this task, but an assertive pour works very nicely. Try New Zealand's Babich Marlborough, an eminently drinkable and easily available sauvignon blanc with a high, fruity top and a strong mineral streak down the middle. California's Beckman Santa Ynez attains a lovely balance of rich, ripe fruit and dusky mineral; think of a gold-tipped cigarette swathed in a peach fuzz wrapper.
It has a bad reputation in many circles, but chardonnay is not a dirty word. This grape has been mishandled in its day, being bulk-produced for jug wines that were over-soaked and over-oaked. In the right vintner's hands, chardonnay is a revelation, as sultry as the sunsets which it evokes. Although sleeker chardonnays have been a recent trend, most are known for being full-bodied, a characteristic that marries well to the bounty of Thanksgiving table. Try Ridge Santa Cruz Estate, a buxom chardonnay perfumed with florals and spice, which is given just enough oak to emphasize its curves. Reasonably priced Franciscan Napa Valley is a direct hit of the buttery apple flavor you expect from chardonnay, set apart by a toasty top note that you should.
In my experience, scoffers are silenced upon their first sip of a good rose. Done right, rose is the coquette of wines, and how could you not want one of those at your party? Like all flirts, rose is as moody as it is teasing, so pair carefully, looking for a rose whose characteristic fruity bloom compliments some serious bodywork. Mas de Gourgonnier les Baux de Provence opens with notes of white tea and roses, before evidencing almost all the flavors in the berry patch. It it sounds too delicate, just wait for the backflip of fern and wet rocks that is the perfect riverside setting for game fowl. Domaine Ott Clair de Noir in the well-known urn-shaped bottle is an icon of rose, with clean, berry-scented flavors that agree with almost any palate, making this the classic introduction to the world of rose.
Because Thanksgiving is a meal of complex and sometimes competing tastes, white blends work well. Many drinkers disagree with me, but I find Conundrum agreeable in context. True, the five grapes used to blend this California table wine scuffle like siblings, but the multi-textured result, heavy on fruit and hazelnut, is well suited for a bounteous table. The show-stopping Bonny Doon vineyard's Le Cigare Blanc is a spritely balancing act of tropical flavors, cream and fresh straw. It's somehow gruff and sleek at once, and that it pairs nicely with poultry and green vegetables is part of a surprise that is, I think, built into the experience.
Finally, like any guest who wants to attend, reds should have a seat at the Thanksgiving table. Versatile, welcoming pinot noir is the common pairing; for it, I always evangelize the wonderfully drinkable Castle Rock. La Crema is reasonably priced and widely available, offering a light bouquet that opens to a gemlike flavor of cherries touched with cinnamon. Both of these California pinot pours cost under twenty dollars a bottle, making them great choices if your task on Thanksgiving Day is to bring the wine.
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