Mincemeat
It's hard to imagine anything that comes out of the holiday kitchen -- or any other time, for that matter -- that's more controversial than mincemeat. When I recently posted a facebook update that I was making mincemeat, I learned an interesting fact: though I assumed that most people barely knew what mincemeat was, they knew. And almost no one had anything positive to say about it.
Mincemeat's bad rep is due equally to the related issues of having had bad mincemeat encounters and of being grossed out by its contents. For me, memories of my grandmother's kitchen are positive, and mincemeat time was no exception. She made a fruited mincemeat that took two days of blissful chopping and macerating to complete. But not everyone who comes from a kitchen where they prepared this old-fashioned filling gets the warm-fuzzies from the memory. In fact, if the mincemeat of those past kitchens was the truly old-fashioned kind, it can cause nightmares.
That's because, in its original incarnation, mincemeat is a suspension of dried fruit, suet (yes, the stuff they make birdseed bells with), forcemeat (beef neck or horse meat; stay with me), spices, and brandy. If it sounds like something Mrs. Lovett would dispense, remember that mincemeat is a very old dish (there are references to it dating to the fifteenth century), which means it came from a time and place where it was necessary to utilize every part of a kill. In those days before the ease of obtaining food that we have gotten used to today, conserving even the unpopular pieces from the butcher shop assured that nothing went to waste. In turn, that increased the chances that there would be something in the cupboard during lean times.
Over time, a second species of mincemeat appeared, made of fresh and dried fruit along with sweetener (typically brown sugar or cider), spices and booze (typically brandy or rum). This mincemeat found its way into great-grandmother's kitchen, where she worked up a batch between the ketchup and the hard sauce that were also her responsibility before we had the onset of commercially packed food.
From there, fruit mincemeat spun into a yearly kitchen practice in which to make it -- for it is labor intensive -- was part of the fun. The two or three days that the kitchen was churning out mincemeat became a party of sorts. Though it was typically done in the heat of August or the early cool of September, much of the fun came from the anticipation of opening the first jars come Christmastime. Mince pies -- lattice crust as well as hand pies -- were the crowning touch to many a Christmas Day feast, and continued to be so all the way to the Feast of the Epiphany.
To many modern palates, it is hard to believe that mincemeat was ever a serious treat. But I don't care: I like mincemeat, and I will crusade for it. I love the intense, lush flavors of the finished product, which echo the velvet elegance -- and, I'll admit, fussiness -- of Victorian holidays. I have to come to think of mincemeat as a celebration in a jar. Mincemeat's place as a jewel of the holiday table celebrates the rhythms of nature, for it is produced in times of plenty to be opened when winter is just beginning to assert its icy fury.
If you dare, now is a good time to make mincemeat. There is enough time for it to season before the holidays, and what better way to preserve the last of the autumn apples and pears? It is a wonderful project for the pared-down beauty of an early November weekend, when October's lush display is drifting in blankets to ready the earth for winter slumber. Mincemeat fills the home with the blooming fragrance of spices and the sprightliness of candying fruit, all within a soul-warming suspension of good ol' brandy. Put it in small jars as gifts for your Thanksgiving visitors. You may find that, on this most sentimental of holidays, they're likelier to try this old-fashioned treat than you -- or they -- would have thought.
MINCEMEAT
Glacé starts appearing in supermarkets this time of year -- it is the candied fruit peel sold for making fruitcake. If you can't find it, here is a good brand available online
. Typically, one pint jar of mincemeat will make one 8-inch pie. Use smaller jars to can the amount you'll need for hand pies, or to substitute mincemeat for the apricots in bar cookies.
3 pounds mixed tart-sweet apples, such as Roma, McIntosh and Honeycrisp
3 pounds mixed pears, such as Bosc, D'Anjou and Bartlett
2 cups golden raisins
1 cup dark raisins
2-1/2 cups chopped dried apricots
2 cups dried currants
1 cup dried cranberries
1 cup dried cherries
1 large navel orange, preferably organic
1 medium lemon, preferably organic
1 cup mixed glacé
1 cup firmly packed light brown sugar
1 cup firmly packed dark brown sugar
4 cups apple cider
1-1/4 cups brandy
1/4 cup orange liqueur, such as Cointreau or Grand Marnier
1-1/2 tablespoons ground cinnamon
2 teaspoons ground allspice
2 teaspoons ground nutmeg
1-1/2 teaspoons ground cloves
1 teaspoon ground ginger
1/2 teaspoon ground mace
1. One to two days prior to preparation, combine the brandy and orange liqueur in a non-reactive jar or bowl. Measure the spices into the liquor. Cover with plastic wrap. Use the tip of a sharp knife to make a small piercing in the wrap. Set aside for 24 hours to infuse.
2. On the day of preparation, prepare canner, pint jars and lids. For instructions on safe canning, click here: http://www.uga.edu/nchfp/publications/publications_usda.html or here: http://www.freshpreserving.com/getting-started.aspx.
3. Place a large Dutch oven or stock pot on the stovetop.
4. Place two or three drops of commercial vegetable cleaner in a bowl; add water to fill the bowl halfway. Add the orange and lemon; swirl to be sure they are coated with the cleaner. Weight with a plate to be sure both citrus fruits are submerged. Soak according to label directions to ensure fruit is cleaned; typically five minutes.
5. Remove orange and lemon from cleaning bath. Rinse well under warm water to remove all traces of cleaner and any collected residue. Dry with a paper towel.
6. Use a citrus knife or sharp paring knife to cut the orange and the lemon into quarters. Remove stem-ends and seeds if any.
7. Place unpeeled citrus quarters into a blender or food processor and process until pulpy. Dump pulped citrus into pan on stove, using a silicon spatula to get all of the mixture.
8. Add raisins, apricots, currants, cranberries and cherries to the pulped citrus in the pan. Use a large wooden spoon to combine.
9. Remove the plastic wrap from the spiced liquor and pour the spiced liquor into the citrus - dried fruit mixture. Use the spoon to mix together for macerating while you prepare the cider and the apples and pears.
10. Measure the sugars into a large bowl. Add the cider; stir to break up the sugars. Set aside for the sugars to dissolve into the cider while you prepare the apples and pears.
11. Working one at a time, use a peeler to remove the peel from an apple or pear. Working quickly, place the peeled apple or pear stem-end up on the cutting board. Use a paring knife to cut the fruit in half from top to bottom. Halve each half to form quarters. Use the tip of the knife to remove and discard the stem, seeds with their hard core, the blossom end, and any bruised or discolored areas. Cut each trimmed quarter in half; cut across each to form bite-sized chunks. It is okay if the pieces seem large; they will break down as they cook. As you prepare each fruit, scrape the chunked fruit into the mixture that is macerating on the stovetop; stir to incorporate to prevent discoloration.
12. Once the apples and pears have been added to the mixture on the stovetop, add the sugar-cider mixture and the glace to the mixture on the stovetop. Stir to combine.
13. Turn the heat to medium-high. Heat the mixture, stirring frequently, for 30 minutes. Turn off the heat.
14. Place a clean towel on a counter near the canner.
15. Use canning tongs to remove hot jars from water bath. Do your best not to touch the hot jars; let the tongs do the work. Place hot jars mouth up on the clean towel.
16. Wrap a clean tea towel around a hot jar, being careful not to let the towel touch the rim of the jar. Use the towel to transport the jar to the pan containing the hot mincemeat. Place a clean canning funnel into the mouth of the jar. Use a clean spoon or ladle to fill the jar with mincemeat to the ½-inch mark. Continue until all of the jars are filled. It is okay if there is mincemeat left over; refrigerate it for use within 1 month.
17. Check for and remove air bubbles if any (see instructions).
18. Use a clean, damp sponge to wipe the rim of each jar. Center a clean, hot lid (see instructions) on each jar. Screw a band down on each jar until it meets resistance; increase just until tight.
19. Use canning tongs to return the jars to the boiling water bath. Add more water if necessary to ensure that the jars are completely covered by boiling water by 1 inch. Process in boiling water bath for 25 minutes.
20. After jars have processed for 25 minutes in the boiling water bath, turn off the heat. Remove the canner lid and set aside. Let jars sit in hot water ten minutes.
21. After ten minutes, use the canning tongs to remove the jars. Being very careful of the hot jars, lids and liquid, place jars upright on the towel. Allow to sit 24 hours. After 24 hours, check for a vacuum seal (see instructions). Label each jar with the contents and the date prepared. Safely prepared, stored and sealed, the mincemeat will keep for one year from date of preparation.
Mincemeat's bad rep is due equally to the related issues of having had bad mincemeat encounters and of being grossed out by its contents. For me, memories of my grandmother's kitchen are positive, and mincemeat time was no exception. She made a fruited mincemeat that took two days of blissful chopping and macerating to complete. But not everyone who comes from a kitchen where they prepared this old-fashioned filling gets the warm-fuzzies from the memory. In fact, if the mincemeat of those past kitchens was the truly old-fashioned kind, it can cause nightmares.
That's because, in its original incarnation, mincemeat is a suspension of dried fruit, suet (yes, the stuff they make birdseed bells with), forcemeat (beef neck or horse meat; stay with me), spices, and brandy. If it sounds like something Mrs. Lovett would dispense, remember that mincemeat is a very old dish (there are references to it dating to the fifteenth century), which means it came from a time and place where it was necessary to utilize every part of a kill. In those days before the ease of obtaining food that we have gotten used to today, conserving even the unpopular pieces from the butcher shop assured that nothing went to waste. In turn, that increased the chances that there would be something in the cupboard during lean times.
Over time, a second species of mincemeat appeared, made of fresh and dried fruit along with sweetener (typically brown sugar or cider), spices and booze (typically brandy or rum). This mincemeat found its way into great-grandmother's kitchen, where she worked up a batch between the ketchup and the hard sauce that were also her responsibility before we had the onset of commercially packed food.
From there, fruit mincemeat spun into a yearly kitchen practice in which to make it -- for it is labor intensive -- was part of the fun. The two or three days that the kitchen was churning out mincemeat became a party of sorts. Though it was typically done in the heat of August or the early cool of September, much of the fun came from the anticipation of opening the first jars come Christmastime. Mince pies -- lattice crust as well as hand pies -- were the crowning touch to many a Christmas Day feast, and continued to be so all the way to the Feast of the Epiphany.
To many modern palates, it is hard to believe that mincemeat was ever a serious treat. But I don't care: I like mincemeat, and I will crusade for it. I love the intense, lush flavors of the finished product, which echo the velvet elegance -- and, I'll admit, fussiness -- of Victorian holidays. I have to come to think of mincemeat as a celebration in a jar. Mincemeat's place as a jewel of the holiday table celebrates the rhythms of nature, for it is produced in times of plenty to be opened when winter is just beginning to assert its icy fury.
If you dare, now is a good time to make mincemeat. There is enough time for it to season before the holidays, and what better way to preserve the last of the autumn apples and pears? It is a wonderful project for the pared-down beauty of an early November weekend, when October's lush display is drifting in blankets to ready the earth for winter slumber. Mincemeat fills the home with the blooming fragrance of spices and the sprightliness of candying fruit, all within a soul-warming suspension of good ol' brandy. Put it in small jars as gifts for your Thanksgiving visitors. You may find that, on this most sentimental of holidays, they're likelier to try this old-fashioned treat than you -- or they -- would have thought.
MINCEMEAT
Glacé starts appearing in supermarkets this time of year -- it is the candied fruit peel sold for making fruitcake. If you can't find it, here is a good brand available online
. Typically, one pint jar of mincemeat will make one 8-inch pie. Use smaller jars to can the amount you'll need for hand pies, or to substitute mincemeat for the apricots in bar cookies.3 pounds mixed tart-sweet apples, such as Roma, McIntosh and Honeycrisp
3 pounds mixed pears, such as Bosc, D'Anjou and Bartlett
2 cups golden raisins
1 cup dark raisins
2-1/2 cups chopped dried apricots
2 cups dried currants
1 cup dried cranberries
1 cup dried cherries
1 large navel orange, preferably organic
1 medium lemon, preferably organic
1 cup mixed glacé
1 cup firmly packed light brown sugar
1 cup firmly packed dark brown sugar
4 cups apple cider
1-1/4 cups brandy
1/4 cup orange liqueur, such as Cointreau or Grand Marnier
1-1/2 tablespoons ground cinnamon
2 teaspoons ground allspice
2 teaspoons ground nutmeg
1-1/2 teaspoons ground cloves
1 teaspoon ground ginger
1/2 teaspoon ground mace
1. One to two days prior to preparation, combine the brandy and orange liqueur in a non-reactive jar or bowl. Measure the spices into the liquor. Cover with plastic wrap. Use the tip of a sharp knife to make a small piercing in the wrap. Set aside for 24 hours to infuse.
2. On the day of preparation, prepare canner, pint jars and lids. For instructions on safe canning, click here: http://www.uga.edu/nchfp/publications/publications_usda.html or here: http://www.freshpreserving.com/getting-started.aspx.
3. Place a large Dutch oven or stock pot on the stovetop.
4. Place two or three drops of commercial vegetable cleaner in a bowl; add water to fill the bowl halfway. Add the orange and lemon; swirl to be sure they are coated with the cleaner. Weight with a plate to be sure both citrus fruits are submerged. Soak according to label directions to ensure fruit is cleaned; typically five minutes.
5. Remove orange and lemon from cleaning bath. Rinse well under warm water to remove all traces of cleaner and any collected residue. Dry with a paper towel.
6. Use a citrus knife or sharp paring knife to cut the orange and the lemon into quarters. Remove stem-ends and seeds if any.
7. Place unpeeled citrus quarters into a blender or food processor and process until pulpy. Dump pulped citrus into pan on stove, using a silicon spatula to get all of the mixture.
8. Add raisins, apricots, currants, cranberries and cherries to the pulped citrus in the pan. Use a large wooden spoon to combine.
9. Remove the plastic wrap from the spiced liquor and pour the spiced liquor into the citrus - dried fruit mixture. Use the spoon to mix together for macerating while you prepare the cider and the apples and pears.
10. Measure the sugars into a large bowl. Add the cider; stir to break up the sugars. Set aside for the sugars to dissolve into the cider while you prepare the apples and pears.
11. Working one at a time, use a peeler to remove the peel from an apple or pear. Working quickly, place the peeled apple or pear stem-end up on the cutting board. Use a paring knife to cut the fruit in half from top to bottom. Halve each half to form quarters. Use the tip of the knife to remove and discard the stem, seeds with their hard core, the blossom end, and any bruised or discolored areas. Cut each trimmed quarter in half; cut across each to form bite-sized chunks. It is okay if the pieces seem large; they will break down as they cook. As you prepare each fruit, scrape the chunked fruit into the mixture that is macerating on the stovetop; stir to incorporate to prevent discoloration.
12. Once the apples and pears have been added to the mixture on the stovetop, add the sugar-cider mixture and the glace to the mixture on the stovetop. Stir to combine.
13. Turn the heat to medium-high. Heat the mixture, stirring frequently, for 30 minutes. Turn off the heat.
14. Place a clean towel on a counter near the canner.
15. Use canning tongs to remove hot jars from water bath. Do your best not to touch the hot jars; let the tongs do the work. Place hot jars mouth up on the clean towel.
16. Wrap a clean tea towel around a hot jar, being careful not to let the towel touch the rim of the jar. Use the towel to transport the jar to the pan containing the hot mincemeat. Place a clean canning funnel into the mouth of the jar. Use a clean spoon or ladle to fill the jar with mincemeat to the ½-inch mark. Continue until all of the jars are filled. It is okay if there is mincemeat left over; refrigerate it for use within 1 month.
17. Check for and remove air bubbles if any (see instructions).
18. Use a clean, damp sponge to wipe the rim of each jar. Center a clean, hot lid (see instructions) on each jar. Screw a band down on each jar until it meets resistance; increase just until tight.
19. Use canning tongs to return the jars to the boiling water bath. Add more water if necessary to ensure that the jars are completely covered by boiling water by 1 inch. Process in boiling water bath for 25 minutes.
20. After jars have processed for 25 minutes in the boiling water bath, turn off the heat. Remove the canner lid and set aside. Let jars sit in hot water ten minutes.
21. After ten minutes, use the canning tongs to remove the jars. Being very careful of the hot jars, lids and liquid, place jars upright on the towel. Allow to sit 24 hours. After 24 hours, check for a vacuum seal (see instructions). Label each jar with the contents and the date prepared. Safely prepared, stored and sealed, the mincemeat will keep for one year from date of preparation.
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