Weeknight Dinner: Turkey Burgers
Yesterday was the first Fourth of July we have spent outside of New York City in over twenty years. On summer weekends, New Yorkers tend to escape to the country, but on this high water mark of summer, as many New Yorkers stay in town as migrate. A New York City Fourth is one of picnics in the park, of lemon ices and stickball tournies, of rooftop beer blasts and riverfront picnics, of jockeying for position for a patch of prime firework-viewing grass or cement. John's and my second home happens to be a few hours away by plane rather than by train, boat or car, and I have to say that a Los Angeles Fourth did not disappoint. We celebrated freedom along with no few of our fellow citizens at the Abbey, the legendary West Hollywood hangout that has correctly been identified as the best gay bar in the world. It's hard to oversell the importance of the Abbey to the LGBTQ community, because while, yes, there is food, drink, dancing and carousing (is there ever), in many ways The Abbey is a community center.
The party is inclusive and non-stop. Everyone jockeys for position in sun or shade according to preference and availability. This enhances the vibe of friendliness because, on a crowded day, you really have no choice. As John and I sipped cocktails and stole glances at go-go dancers from our tall table beneath a black chandelier, friends of the moment took advantage of the available real estate on the other side of the table to park their drinks, distribute hugs, introduce themselves to us. As the day unwinds, you run into the most amazing people -- an old college friend from college, a colleague from a job long ago, someone who recognizes you from social media, a friend recently made on another day in another venue.
Los Angeles is a social place, and as the day progressed. the social scene revealed another dimension of itself, as groups broke away to pursue that great American pastime that reaches its zenith on this great American day: the backyard barbeque. It is fitting that the public celebration turns private as we gather to celebrate freedom by engaging in it. On patios and balconies, courtyards and rooftops, public picnic grounds and private yards, grills are primed, fires are lit, drinks are iced, watermelons are cleaved. And just as surely as there are hot dogs and potato salad, burgers are grilled.
There can be little question that the hamburger is the monarch of the grill, but on the Fourth this democratic society dethrones the monarchy. A hamburger is really a great equalizer, probably the most common menu item at the American table. In New York City, John and I crave Elephant and Castle's stout elephant burger, served with a plop of curried sour cream; the Tavern on Jane's bleu cheese burger served with their exemplary potato gratin; the honest grillwork at local taverns like Fanelli's and The Sparrow. In Los Angeles, the Abbey presents its patty with the unmistakable char of outdoor dining and a paper bag of garlicky fries; while Fred 62 seats their burger on an eggy toasted roll and crowns it with a potato chip on a stick. I've written before of a Kobe beef burger from the Formosa, accompanied by a side of wasabi fries. And then there is In N Out, where a stop for a double-double animal style with onions and two on the side is the first thing John and I do right after we land in LA.
After picking through the racks at nearby Amoeba, we pair one of Stout's crafted patties with fries or an arugula salad and a cold beer from their curated list. At Stout, burgers are not just defined as beef, and that's as democratic as it gets. Beef, chicken and veggie burgers are all equal on the menu and in the tummy. That is a lesson that all Americans do well to remember. In honor of it, this month's weeknight dinner is an All-American burger made of the same key element we showcase on our other distinctively American holiday: turkey. This original recipe for a turkey burgers can be grilled or pan-fried. Serve it with the herb salad included in the recipe or another favorite side dish. And if you'd rather chow down on a beef burger, click here for Urban Home's recipe for another American classic: green chile cheeseburgers.
TURKEY BURGERS
Though this looks like many steps, it goes quite quickly once you get into the groove. These burgers can be fried or grilled. The recipe is written for the former; if grilling, adjust those steps accordingly. For Urban Home's guide to herbs and spices, click here; for the guide to kitchen tools and utensils, click here.
For the burgers
1 pound ground turkey
4 tablespoons unsalted butter
1 teaspoon dried thyme
1 teaspoon dried parsley
1/2 teaspoon garlic powder
1/2 teaspoon onion powder
1/2 teaspoon ground white pepper
1/2 pound sliced white deli cheese, such as white American, Swiss, or Muenster
For the herb salad
1 small head Boston or Bibb lettuce
1 bunch Italian flat-leaf parsley
1 small bunch fresh marjoram or oregano
1 small bunch tarragon, summer savory or chervil
Several stems fresh thyme
1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil
2 tablespoons red wine vinegar
Table salt
Freshly ground black pepper
For the sauteed onions
1 large or two medium yellow onions
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
1/4 teaspoon granulated sugar
1/2 teaspoon ground white pepper
1/4 teaspoon table salt
Whole grain mustard
Make the compound butter
1. Unwrap the butter and place it into a small mixing bowl to soften. Add the dried herbs, powders and pepper to the bowl.
2. Once the butter is soft enough to work with, use a stick blender or silicon spatula to incorporate the seasonings into the butter.
3. Cover the bowl loosely with plastic wrap and refrigerate until ready to use.
Cook the onions
1. Peel each onion and remove the root and stem ends. Place each onion on a clean cutting board devoted to fruits and vegetables. Halve each onion from root to stem; halve each half. Cut each quarter into thin half-moons.
2. Place 2 tablespoons butter into a large saute pan. Sprinkle the pan with 1/2 teaspoon granulated sugar.
3. Turn the heat to low. Swirl the pan to ensure that the sugar-butter mixture thoroughly coats the pan.
4. Gently distribute the onions across the pan. It is okay if they form a thick layer. Sprinkle the top with the salt and the white pepper.
5. Give the pan a shake to ensure that none of the ingredients is sticking. Cover the pan and cook the onions on low until very fragrant and with nice caramelization, approximately 40 minutes total. 6. Check the onions every so often and stir them to ensure that they don't stick to the pan.
Make the salad
1. Pull the outer leaves from the lettuce. Tear larger leaves into smaller pieces. Place lettuce into a colander or the reservoir of a salad spinner. Pull the soft inner leaves from between the ribs of the lettuce, taking care to avoid the ribs and stopping when you reach the harder inner core. Place in the colander/salad spinner with the outer leaves. Rinse with cool water.
2. Rinse the bunches of soft herbs under cool water. Place the bunches on a cutting board devoted to fruits and vegetables and roughly chop the herbs from the tips to halfway down the bunches, where the leaves start to thin out along the stalks. Transfer the chopped herbs to the colander. Store the remainder of the herbs for another usage (for instructions on storing herbs, click here).
The party is inclusive and non-stop. Everyone jockeys for position in sun or shade according to preference and availability. This enhances the vibe of friendliness because, on a crowded day, you really have no choice. As John and I sipped cocktails and stole glances at go-go dancers from our tall table beneath a black chandelier, friends of the moment took advantage of the available real estate on the other side of the table to park their drinks, distribute hugs, introduce themselves to us. As the day unwinds, you run into the most amazing people -- an old college friend from college, a colleague from a job long ago, someone who recognizes you from social media, a friend recently made on another day in another venue.
Los Angeles is a social place, and as the day progressed. the social scene revealed another dimension of itself, as groups broke away to pursue that great American pastime that reaches its zenith on this great American day: the backyard barbeque. It is fitting that the public celebration turns private as we gather to celebrate freedom by engaging in it. On patios and balconies, courtyards and rooftops, public picnic grounds and private yards, grills are primed, fires are lit, drinks are iced, watermelons are cleaved. And just as surely as there are hot dogs and potato salad, burgers are grilled.
There can be little question that the hamburger is the monarch of the grill, but on the Fourth this democratic society dethrones the monarchy. A hamburger is really a great equalizer, probably the most common menu item at the American table. In New York City, John and I crave Elephant and Castle's stout elephant burger, served with a plop of curried sour cream; the Tavern on Jane's bleu cheese burger served with their exemplary potato gratin; the honest grillwork at local taverns like Fanelli's and The Sparrow. In Los Angeles, the Abbey presents its patty with the unmistakable char of outdoor dining and a paper bag of garlicky fries; while Fred 62 seats their burger on an eggy toasted roll and crowns it with a potato chip on a stick. I've written before of a Kobe beef burger from the Formosa, accompanied by a side of wasabi fries. And then there is In N Out, where a stop for a double-double animal style with onions and two on the side is the first thing John and I do right after we land in LA.
After picking through the racks at nearby Amoeba, we pair one of Stout's crafted patties with fries or an arugula salad and a cold beer from their curated list. At Stout, burgers are not just defined as beef, and that's as democratic as it gets. Beef, chicken and veggie burgers are all equal on the menu and in the tummy. That is a lesson that all Americans do well to remember. In honor of it, this month's weeknight dinner is an All-American burger made of the same key element we showcase on our other distinctively American holiday: turkey. This original recipe for a turkey burgers can be grilled or pan-fried. Serve it with the herb salad included in the recipe or another favorite side dish. And if you'd rather chow down on a beef burger, click here for Urban Home's recipe for another American classic: green chile cheeseburgers.
TURKEY BURGERS
Though this looks like many steps, it goes quite quickly once you get into the groove. These burgers can be fried or grilled. The recipe is written for the former; if grilling, adjust those steps accordingly. For Urban Home's guide to herbs and spices, click here; for the guide to kitchen tools and utensils, click here.
For the burgers
1 pound ground turkey
4 tablespoons unsalted butter
1 teaspoon dried thyme
1 teaspoon dried parsley
1/2 teaspoon garlic powder
1/2 teaspoon onion powder
1/2 teaspoon ground white pepper
1/2 pound sliced white deli cheese, such as white American, Swiss, or Muenster
For the herb salad
1 small head Boston or Bibb lettuce
1 bunch Italian flat-leaf parsley
1 small bunch fresh marjoram or oregano
1 small bunch tarragon, summer savory or chervil
Several stems fresh thyme
1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil
2 tablespoons red wine vinegar
Table salt
Freshly ground black pepper
For the sauteed onions
1 large or two medium yellow onions
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
1/4 teaspoon granulated sugar
1/2 teaspoon ground white pepper
1/4 teaspoon table salt
For serving
Four fresh bakery rolls such as Kaiser or onion, or four pitasWhole grain mustard
Make the compound butter
1. Unwrap the butter and place it into a small mixing bowl to soften. Add the dried herbs, powders and pepper to the bowl.
2. Once the butter is soft enough to work with, use a stick blender or silicon spatula to incorporate the seasonings into the butter.
3. Cover the bowl loosely with plastic wrap and refrigerate until ready to use.
Cook the onions
1. Peel each onion and remove the root and stem ends. Place each onion on a clean cutting board devoted to fruits and vegetables. Halve each onion from root to stem; halve each half. Cut each quarter into thin half-moons.
2. Place 2 tablespoons butter into a large saute pan. Sprinkle the pan with 1/2 teaspoon granulated sugar.
3. Turn the heat to low. Swirl the pan to ensure that the sugar-butter mixture thoroughly coats the pan.
4. Gently distribute the onions across the pan. It is okay if they form a thick layer. Sprinkle the top with the salt and the white pepper.
5. Give the pan a shake to ensure that none of the ingredients is sticking. Cover the pan and cook the onions on low until very fragrant and with nice caramelization, approximately 40 minutes total. 6. Check the onions every so often and stir them to ensure that they don't stick to the pan.
Make the salad
1. Pull the outer leaves from the lettuce. Tear larger leaves into smaller pieces. Place lettuce into a colander or the reservoir of a salad spinner. Pull the soft inner leaves from between the ribs of the lettuce, taking care to avoid the ribs and stopping when you reach the harder inner core. Place in the colander/salad spinner with the outer leaves. Rinse with cool water.
2. Rinse the bunches of soft herbs under cool water. Place the bunches on a cutting board devoted to fruits and vegetables and roughly chop the herbs from the tips to halfway down the bunches, where the leaves start to thin out along the stalks. Transfer the chopped herbs to the colander. Store the remainder of the herbs for another usage (for instructions on storing herbs, click here).
1. Unwrap the turkey and transfer it to a clean cutting board reserved for poultry. Divide the turkey into four equal portions.
2. Build each portion into a mound. Use your thumb to press a hole into each mound; being careful not to press all the way through to the board.
3. Remove the compound butter from the refrigerator. Remove four coins of compound butter and place one coin each in each mound of turkey.
4. Bring the ground turkey up and across the hole to cover it, flattening the mound so that it nestles tightly against the coin of compound butter and shaping a patty about 1/2 inch thick as you go.
Cook the burgers
Cook the burgers
1. Once ready to cook, heat a grill pan or skillet large enough to hold the burgers without crowding them on medium high for five minutes.
2. After five minutes, place a dollop of compound butter in the pan. Use an oven mitt to hold the pan handle as you swirl the butter in the pan.
3. Carefully place the four patties in the pan. Place a dollop of butter on each patty.
4. Cook the patties 8 minutes. Use a heat safe spatula to gently flip each patty. Place a dollop of butter on each patty. Cook the patties 8 minutes more.
5. Gently flip each patty. The burgers should be nicely golden and fragrant. Top each patty with the remainder of the compound butter if any. Gently place two slices of cheese on top of each patty.
6. Reduce the heat to low and cover the pan with its lid or a smoke shield to stay warm while you prepare the plates.
Serve
Serve
1. Measure the olive oil, vinegar, salt and pepper into the reservoir of a large serving bowl. Use a whisk to lightly stir the dressing together. Add the lettuce-herb mixture to the bowl and toss with the dressing.
2. Turn the heat off of the onions. Use a silicon spatula to transfer the onions to a serving bowl.
3. Split each roll or pita and place one each on a plate.
4. Turn the heat off of the burgers. Use the spatula to transfer each burger to each roll/pita. Serve with the salad, onions, and mustard for guests to dress their burger as they like.
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