Fennel Relish

As we do every August in our urban homes, we are celebrating the harvest in the wake of the first of the three holidays that honor it. In the northeast, the season of Lammas has been golden by day and touched by gray at night. This is typical for our climate, where golden summer is all the more precious for the charcoal-etched winter that counterpoints it, and why the transitional seasons of spring and autumn are so significant. Both autumn and spring fade in and fade out even as winter and summer boldly manifest. Sure, there are the high holy days of summer vacation and winter holidays, and we cherish all times, but just as warm air heats the open windows of early spring, so does cool air invigorate through the open windows of late summer, and both of these quicken us forward. In so doing, we are reflecting the rhythms of Mother Earth Herself. While crops have been maturing all summer, many garden crops reach their zenith during August. Mabon will bring us the harvests of orchard and vineyard and Samhain the harvest of fallow field crops and, some say, souls. But during the season of Lammas, we are still under summer's spell. How fitting that we inaugurate the harvest season with a golden loaf of bread in honor of the other crop that matures during this time: wheat.

The same sacred rhythm via which field and garden produce by the bushel sends us into the canning kitchen. We work as fast as we can to keep pace with the yield as we work to preserve it. This is the season of pressure-canning low acid fruits and vegetables from tomatoes to green beans, of brining pickles and seasoning relishes, of stewing blue-ribbon worthy sauces and condiments, of freezing what we run out of jars for. Regular readers of Urban Home Blog have been canning along since our very first summer together. Strawberry-Balsamic jam, cranberry sauce and pickled jalapeños are popular canning recipes at Urban Home Blog, but the most popular is our official recipe for preparing and canning giardiniera. We make it every season in our urban home, and we are glad for all of the input - especially the pictures - that you like it as much as we do.

Another relish that is a fixture during canning season in our urban home is fennel relish. This relish is but one of those beyond the hot dog staple that you can make fresh or for home canning. There are relishes made from everything from cauliflower to peppers, from mango to grapefruit. You may not initially think of fennel as a vegetable suitable for canning but it actually takes very well to the water bath. This relish is the best way I've found to capture the licorice snap of this distinctive bulb vegetable. The capers and olive oil reflect fennel's association with Mediterranean cooking, as does the bright lemon flavor. The lemon also prevents discoloration, resulting in a lovely, celadon colored condiment.

Fennel is typically a two season crop, with tender young bulbs available beginning late winter and with more robust mature bulbs at their best from now through early autumn. In our urban home, we will take fennel any way we can get it, from a feathery, orange-scented salad to a crunchy top note in a robust insalata mista. We have snuck fennel onto a platter of crudite, infused it into a bottle of vodka, baked it into a tart. This relish is a house favorite for its flavor and its versatility. It pairs particularly well with pork -- try it with our recipes for pork tenderloin or pork chops with tarragon. It would also make a nice addition to a plate of salmon with lentils, or to a cheese board featuring a creamy Brie or a tart goat cheese.

FENNEL RELISH
It is essential to follow safe canning practices. For instructions on safe canning, click here: http://www.uga.edu/nchfp/publications/publications_usda.html, or here: http://www.freshpreserving.com/getting-started.aspx.

3 medium bulbs fennel
1/2 cup light brown sugar
1-1/2 cups apple cider vinegar
4 medium Spanish onions
1 4.5 ounce jar pickled Spanish capers
1 large lemon, preferably organic
2 teaspoons kosher salt
1-1/2 tablespoons dry mustard
3/4 tablespoon fennel seeds
1/2 tablespoon dill seeds
1/2 tablespoon coriander
1/2 tablespoon green peppercorns

1. Prepare canner, jars and lids.
2. Place a clean cutting board dedicated to fruits and vegetables on the counter. Position an in-sink colander into place. Safely set up the blender or food processor within reach of the board and colander.
3. Working one at a time, lay a fennel bulb on the board. Use a strong, sharp knife to remove and discard the calloused bottom from the fennel bulb. Carefully use the tip of the knife to cut at an angle into the core of the fennel bulb, which will be evident from the cut across the bottom of the bulb. Carefully maneuver the knife, still at an angle, around the core, which will pop out in a pyramid shape. Discard the core.
4. Use the knife to remove the stems and feathery fronds. They should emit their fragrance from the cut; choose a few of the most aromatic stems and set these aside along with some of the prettiest fronds. Place the remainder of the fronds and stems into a plastic bag and freeze for another use.
5. Put on a cut-proof glove and roughly chop the fennel bulb into chunks. Transfer the chunks into the blender or food processor. Use the "chop" command to chop the fennel into small chunks; be careful not to over-process. Work in batches, and transferring each chopped batch to the colander before processing the next batch.
6. Once you have safely chopped all of the fennel bulbs, gently chop the reserved stems. Transfer the chopped stems and fronds to the colander.
7. Sprinkle the chopped fennel with the salt. Use your hands to combine. Leave the fennel to drain in the sink for 20 minutes.
8. While the fennel is draining, peel the onions and remove the root and stem ends. Place the onion on the cutting board. Halve the onion from root to stem; halve each half. Transfer the quartered onion to the food processor / blender and chop. Work in batches, measuring the chopped onion until you have 3 cups of it.
8. Transfer 3 cups chopped onion to the fennel in the colander. Use your hands to combine the mixture. Wrap and store any unused onion for another use.
9.  Open the jar of capers and empty it into the colander containing the onion and fennel.  Use your hands to combine the mixture.
10. Place a few drops food-safe vegetable cleaner in the palm of your hand. Rub the lemon with vegetable cleaner then rinse the lemon until it feels clean and smooth. Place the lemon on a paper towel to dry.
11. Measure the fennel and dill seeds, coriander and pepper into a mortar and pestle. Grind the spices until they are broken up and release their fragrance but not until they are powdered.
12. Place the ground spices into a large nonreactive saucepan. Measure the dry mustard into the saucepan. Measure the brown sugar and the apple cider vinegar into the saucepan. When the vinegar contacts the brown sugar it will start to bubble and the sugar will dissolve; that is okay.
13. Turn the burner under the brine to low. Use a wire whisk to stir the brine until the sugar completely dissolves.
14. While the brine is heating, use a lemon zester to zest the entire skin of the lemon into the brine. Try to get just the yellow zest while avoiding the bitter white pith just beneath.
15. Bring the heat to medium. Gently transfer the mixture in the colander to the heating brine. Work in batches and stir each addition into the batch with a wooden spoon or silicon spatula before adding the next amount. Work gently to avoid splashing yourself with hot liquid.
16. Once you have transfered all of the fennel mixture into the brine, stir it gently but constantly until the liquid comes to a full boil. The mixture should be very fragrant.
17. Once the relish comes to a full boil, cover the pan. Boil covered for one minute. Turn off the heat but leave the lid on the pan.
18. Place a clean towel on a counter near the canner.
19. Use canning tongs to remove hot jars from water bath. Do your best not to touch the hot jars; let the tongs do the work. Place hot jars mouth up on the clean towel.
20. Use a jar lifter to transport a jar mouth-side up to the pan containing the hot relish. Place a clean canning funnel into the mouth of the jar. Remove the lid from the pan containing the relish, which should now be very fragrant and pale greenish-white in color. Stir the relish to be sure that all of the ingredients are well distributed. Carefully fill the jar with relish to the ½-inch mark. Continue until all of the jars are filled. It is okay if there is relish left over; refrigerate it for use within 1 month.
21. Check for and remove air bubbles if any (see instructions).
22. Use a clean, damp sponge to wipe the rim of each jar. Center a clean, hot lid (see instructions) on each jar. Screw a band down on each jar until it meets resistance; increase just until tight.
23. Use canning tongs to return the jars to the boiling water bath. Add more water if necessary to ensure that the jars are completely covered by boiling water by 1 inch. Process in boiling water bath for 10 minutes.
24. After jars have processed for ten minutes in the boiling water bath, turn off the heat. Remove the canner lid and set aside. Let jars sit in hot water ten minutes.
25. After ten minutes, use the canning tongs to remove the jars. Being very careful of the hot jars, lids and liquid, place jars upright on the towel. Allow to sit 24 hours. After 24 hours, check for a vacuum seal (see instructions). Label each jar with the contents and the date prepared. Safely prepared, stored and sealed, the jam will keep for one year from date of preparation.

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