Setting Up the Pantry, Part One: The Basics

Cliche states that the kitchen is the heart of the home, but it is true. Whether we are just home from doing errands or from the airport, after we drop our keys and coat, we make a beeline for the kitchen. We want a cold drink or a cup of coffee, a nibble of coffee cake or a handful of cashews, a cold beer or a turkey sandwich. The first order of business in the morning is to turn on the coffeemaker, and the last order at night is to turn on the dishwasher. Events such as dinner parties are built around the labors of the kitchen -- in fact, entire holidays are.

The modern kitchen evolved from the much more fundamental hearth. If our contemporary hearth of gleaming appliances and well-organized cabinets beckons us whenever we're home, how much more so did the hearth. In times when shelter itself was simpler, those one- or two-room dwellings were built around fire pits and, later, fireplaces. In the ancient Western world, the hearth was the province of Hestia, a powerful goddess who was the provider and protector of home. Though powerful -- Hestia was one of the original Olympians, a sister and contemporary of Zeus -- Hestia was humble. She was content to tend the hearth at Mount Olympus. But, in a truth that almost any homekeeper knows, Her humility was a source of great strength. Adventures await out in the world, but from ancient Odysseus to our own modern selves, it is home that always beckons.

Then and now, the purpose of the hearth is warmth, camaraderie and something to eat. As the hearth developed as the core of the house, a necessary problem attended it: procuring food and, once it was procured, storing or rationing food against times of future want. It was something of a calculated gamble, for on the one hand, whether hunter, gatherer or trader, one couldn't count on a supply of food being readily available, but on the other hand, one couldn't count on the food one had staying fresh for very long. One had to both eat one's food while it was fresh and good and try to preserve whatever of one's food one could preserve. This is one of the reasons we have canning and preserving, and also one of the reasons we have everything from corned beef to smoked pork, pemmican to fruit leather, ice houses to root cellars, frozen corn to jarred spaghetti sauce.

It is also one of the reasons that feasting became the center of celebration, for an abundance of food was among the very best news there was. It is an appropriate lesson for these last days of summer as autumn ascends, for it reminds us why we celebrate the three harvests. The earth has reached the culmination of grains, fruits and vegetables. As we harvest, we celebrate by putting the best of this abundance on the table, but we also preserve it against the uncertainties of the upcoming season.

The hearth begat the pantry. A well-stocked pantry is the backbone of a well-run kitchen. Pantries can be as fancy as entire rooms unto themselves or as humble as the shelves in a galley kitchen. With a well-stocked pantry, we are always ready to prepare food. As we stock and use our pantry, our facility in the kitchen grows. Having the ingredients on hand to prepare our own sauces, soups, baked goods, et cetera lends itself to doing just that. It also becomes part of the rhythm of life, for we find ourselves going about our day with enhanced time and task management. We may make a batch of granola while the laundry spins or make a nice home-made lunch from leftover pieces of pasta and some good homemade chicken stock. This is how many of our ancestors maintained their homesteads, and it is a good skill to have and a good way to live.

Here is the first of Urban Home Blog's Guide to Stocking the Home Pantry. The baking pantry will be published in the next column. Related, you can find Urban Home Blog's Guide to Herbs and Spices here, including a free printable version here. Though this guide is more comprehensive than most lists and guides and Urban Home Blog, it is still a guide, and none of these recommendations is a compensated endorsement.

Urban Pantry, Part One: The Basics
This guide is organized according to area of concentration, which are shelf goods and not refrigerated or frozen foods. For purposes of this guide, the preferred canned goods are those that have been safely home canned whenever possible.

GRAINS, CEREALS AND PASTA
In the grocery store, grains and cereals are slightly differentiated versions of the same thing: the product of a plant from the grass family that produces an edible part such as a seed, and some products of some non-grass, broadleaf plants that produces an edible part, such as a seed, that we associate with grains. For this guide, grains are those we typically keep on hand for side dishes while cereals are those we typically eat for breakfast. Pasta is a grain product, and is its own section. For pantry guidelines regarding flour, see Urban Home Blog's Guide to the Baking Pantry.

Grains
Basic
1 one-pound bag Basmati rice
1 one-pound bag or box American Long Grain rice
1 one-pound bag or box ground cornmeal

Nice to Have
1 one-pound bag or box Arborio or Carnaroli rice
1 one-pound bag or box brown rice

Specialty
American Wild Rice, black rice, barley, farro, quinoa, wheat berries, bulgur, etc. Buy in small quantities as needed.

• Decant each type of grain into a glass jar with a tight-fitting lid. We like Williams-Sonoma glass jars with ceramic lids. Write the name of the grain and the date purchased on a note card stored with the grains, or write it on the lid of the jar. Most grains keep well, but if there is an expiration date noted on the packaging, note that on the note card. As a rule, don't buy more grains than you will use in a three-month period.
• It is unavoidable that some grains and grain products will evidence an infestation of grain weevils. Don't panic; it doesn't mean that the kitchen is unclean. In almost any instance, grains or grain products that evidence weevils were infested at time of purchase. This can include an infestation of eggs, which is why the grain looked fine when you bought it. You can freeze your grains for three days after purchase to reduce the chance of weevil eggs, if any, hatching. Always check the jar before opening it; if the grain has tiny brown moving specks in it, it has weevils. In that case, open the jar over the trash can and tamp all of the contents thoroughly into the trash. Bag up the trash and get it out of the kitchen immediately. Wash the jar thoroughly with soap and water. Email the grocery where you obtained the grains with the date of purchase and receipt number if available, to learn if they will replace the item with one from a different manufacturer or process run.

Cereals
Basic
1 -2 boxes household favorite packaged breakfast cereal
1 drum American or steel-cut oats
1 drum grits

Nice to Have
1 supply granola. Click here for Urban Home Blog’s recipe for apple granola.

• Buy cereal on sale or in bulk as your storage allows and balanced against household usage and expiration dates. Transfer store-bought cereals into airtight storage containers designed for the purpose. We like Snapware Cereal Keepers. Note expiration dates on a note card stored with the containers. As a rule, don't buy more cereal than you will use in a three-month period.

Pasta
Basic
2 – 3 boxes dried long- and medium-cut household favorites, such as spaghetti, linguini, cappellini, farfalle, penne, rigatoni or shells
1 box orzo, pastini or alphabets
1 – 2 bags good quality dried filled tortellini such as cheese or spinach

Specialty
Lasagne, fettuccini, egg noodles, tre-colore , little stars, bucatini, etc. Buy as needed for specific dishes.

• Store unused pasta in a glass jar or plastic container with tight-fitting lid. There is no need to separate the cuts; just throw them together, breaking big cuts into small pieces. Most dried pasta keeps indefinitely, but if there is an expiration date noted on the packaging, note that on a note card stored with the pasta. Use leftover dried pasta in soup or for a quick pasta toss.

OILS, VINEGARS AND COOKING LIQUIDS
Oils
Basic
1 large bottle extra-virgin olive oil
1 bottle vegetable oil

Specialty
Sesame, Chili, White Truffle, Pumpkin, Hazelnut, Walnut, Virgin or Pomace Olive, etc. Buy as needed for specific dishes.

• With the exception of specific cuisines or dishes, extra-virgin olive oil is the only essential cooking oil. Buy the largest bottle that your budget allows. Be sure that the bottle is clearly labeled 100% extra-virgin olive oil; the manufacturer/distributor is obligated that a bottle so labeled contains only oil obtained from the very first pressing of the olives. The quality of olive oil degenerates with each consecutive pressing; these are labeled virgin, pomace, 100% olive, etc. Only the first, best pressing can be labeled “extra-virgin,” and outside of some dishes (which will be noted in those recipes), that is the pressing that you should cook with.
• Keep a supply of bartender's pour spouts in a couple of different sizes. If the mouth of the bottle allows, replace the cap of the bottle of extra-virgin olive oil with the spout, making certain that the fit is secure. This makes measuring the oil for cooking much more effective.
• Unless directed otherwise by the merchant or on the label, store specialty oils in the pantry until opened. Once specialty oils have been opened, store them in the refrigerator. Most of these oils have expiration dates; buy in small quantities to minimize potential waste.

Vinegars
Basic
1 large bottle white vinegar
1 large bottle red wine vinegar
1 medium bottle apple cider vinegar

Nice to Have
1 medium bottle quality Balsamic vinegar
1 small bottle quality sherry vinegar
1 medium bottle unseasoned rice wine vinegar

Specialty
Champagne, beer, malt, etc. Buy as needed for specific dishes.

• Infused vinegars often arrive as part of gift baskets; save these and use them as recipes or your creativity calls for. Infused vinegars are also simple to make. Place a few sprigs of herbs such as rosemary, tarragon or lemongrass; citrus peel such as lemon or tangerine; or spices such as star anise or chili peppers into a clean glass bottle or jar with a tight fitting lid. Carefully fill the bottle/jar with white vinegar. Cap the bottle jar and store for a week before using. Once opened, store infused vinegar in the refrigerator.

Cooking Wine
Basic
1 large bottle dry vermouth

Specialty
Mirin, Madeira, etc. Buy as needed for specific recipes.

• Almost any cook will tell you that you shouldn’t cook with a wine that you wouldn’t drink. While decent cooking wines do exist, the best practice is to decant unused table wine into a glass bottle or jar with a tight-fitting lid and cook with those. Keep one bottle/jar for red wine and one bottle/jar for white wine and store them in the refrigerator. Use cooking wine so stored as soon after opening as able; always discard it along with the container if the wine begins to evidence an off smell or visible mold or mildew. Plan on the occasional trip to the home bar to rob a pour of brandy, rum, sake, port, brandy or liqueur for specific recipes.

Cooking liquids
Basic
1 supply chicken stock
1 supply beef stock

Nice to have
1 supply vegetable stock

Specialty
Veal stock, turkey stock, court bouillon, etc. Buy or make as needed.

• Stocks are best made in house; click here for Urban Home Blog’s recipe for chicken stock. Good store-bought stocks do exist; we like Swanson’s. If using store-bought stock, always obtain low sodium stock. Store any unused basic stock (chicken, beef or vegetable) in glass jars in the refrigerator and use as needed. Store unused veal or turkey stock in freezer-safe containers in the freezer, labeled with the date opened/made. Store turkey stock in a large container; store veal stock as individual tablets in an ice cube tray wrapped with a double layer of freezer safe plastic wrap. Unused fish stock or court bouillon is not suitable for long-term storage.

DRIED FOODS
Legumes
Legumes are plants that produce pods that contain seeds. In the grocery store, the edible seeds from those pods are beans, peas, lentils and peanuts. With the exception of peanuts, legumes for the pantry are dried or canned; this guide recommends each based on the best usage and storability of the legume for cooking, eating and storage.

Basic
1 one-pound bag dried pinto beans
1 one-pound bag dried Great Northern beans
1 one-pound bag dried black-eyed peas
1 one-pound bag dried lentils, such as French Green or Lentilles du Puy
2 cans red kidney beans
2 cans black beans
2 cans cannellini
2 cans small white beans

Specialty
Flagolet, split pea, fava, butter, shell peanuts, etc. Buy in small quantities as needed.

Decant each type of dried legume into a glass jar with a tight-fitting lid. Write the name of the legume and the date purchased on a note card stored with the legumes, or write it on the lid of the jar. Most dried legumes keep indefinitely, but if there is an expiration date noted on the packaging, note that on the note card/lid. Use leftover dried legumes in soup or cook them in stock with herbs for a side dish.

Dried Fruits and Vegetables
Basic
1 bag unsweetened dried flaked coconut
1 small supply dried apples
1 small supply dried bananas
1 small supply dried, pitted dates
1 medium supply seedless raisins
1 medium supply golden raisins
1 medium supply dried cranberries
1 jar sun-dried tomatoes
1 jar pitted oil-cured olives
1 package dried mushrooms

Nice to have
1 small supply dried cherries
1 small supply dried, pitted apricots
1 small supply dried figs
1 small supply dried currants

• Obtain dried fruit and vegetables from the bulk-foods aisle at a good supermarket or specialty supplier such as health food store or farmer’s market. With the exception of lunch-sized small boxes of raisins, store dried fruit in glass jars with tight-fitting lids. Keep a note card with the jars, noting when each was purchased. Discard any dried fruit and its packaging/storage container that begins to evidence an off smell or visible mold or mildew.
• To package your own sun-dried tomatoes or oil-cured olives, obtain a supply from a specialty supplier such as an ethnic grocer or farmer’s market. Pack the tomatoes and olives each in its own glass jar with a tight-fitting lid. Place a sprig of rosemary or a peeled clove of garlic in each jar. Pour extra-virgin olive oil into each jar just to cover the contents. Cap the jars and store on a cool, dark shelf for use as needed.

CANNED FOODS
Canned Goods
Canned goods are the core of every pantry. In our urban home, whenever possible we opt for goods we have canned ourselves, and the suggestions throughout this guide take into account that canned goods can refer to commercially produced canned food or safely home-canned food.

2 large cans San Marzano tomatoes, crushed, diced or whole
3 cans tomato paste
1 – 2 jars red pasta sauce
2 – 4 cans household favorite canned soup
2 cans garbanzo beans
2 cans hominy
1 – 2 cans or pouches eco-safe albacore tuna in water
1 – 2 cans or pouches eco-safe albacore tuna in oil

• Pasta sauce is best made fresh, but a jar or two of jarred red sauce is fundamental to the American kitchen and is a good idea to keep on hand for quick meals. The quality of jarred pasta sauce varies widely. In our urban home, we like those with a fresh, clean approach, such as Giada DeLaurentis pasta sauce, either Roasted Garlic or Olive. Whether fresh or jarred, store leftover red pasta sauce in a freezer container labeled with the date the sauce was made/opened. Defrost and heat leftover pasta sauce to toss with leftover pasta for a quick meal or snack.
• Most vegetables are best prepared and served fresh, and that is the recommendation whenever possible. Vegetables that translate best to preserving do so via the freezer rather than the tin can, so frozen vegetables are recommended over canned. Click here for Urban Home Blog’s recipe for freezing corn.

Antipasti
Basic
1 medium jar pimientos
2 small jars artichoke hearts in oil
1 jar nonpareil capers
2 jars brined green olives, such as pimento-, blue cheese, manzanilla, etc.
2 small tins or 1 small jar flat anchovy filets
1 – 2 jars canned hot peppers
1 -2 jars dill pickles
1 -2 jars pickle relish

Nice to Have
1 – 2 jars pickle mix. Click here for Urban Home Blog’s recipe for giardiniera.

• Antipasti are highly individual to household; it is impossible to account for all possibilities here. As a rule, keep one jar in use and have one in reserve. Buy antipasti on sale or as needed, balanced against household usage and expiration dates.
• Olives are best obtained fresh from an ethnic grocer. Inspect the brine before purchasing to be sure the brine does not evidence any noticeable discoloration or mold or mildew. Store unused olives in the refrigerator in a plastic container and use within a few days of purchase. Jarred green olives are usually acceptable; check the brine as directed above. Do not use jarred or canned black olives; they are typically inferior green olives that have been processed to be labeled “black.” Obtain fresh black olives as needed from an ethnic grocer.

Condiments
Basic
1 – 2 bottles ketchup
1 – 2 bottles household favorite steak sauce, such as A-1, Heinz 57, Lea and Perrins, Peter Luger, etc., or a combination
1 – 2 jars mustard, such as Dijon, stone ground, yellow ballpark, etc. or a combination. Click here for Urban Home Blog's recipe for Dijon-style mustard.
1 – 2 jars hot sauce, such as Tabasco, Sriracha, etc. or a combination
1 – 2 bottles Worcestershire sauce

Nice to have
1 – 2 jars chili sauce. Click here for Urban Home Blog’s recipe for chili sauce.
1 - 2 jars chutney

• Condiments are highly individual to household; it is impossible to account for all possibilities here. As a rule, keep one jar/bottle in use and have one in reserve. Buy condiments on sale or in bulk as your storage allows and balanced against household usage and expiration dates.
• Some condiments are best made and served fresh; two such are salsa and mayonnaise. Because they are made fresh, store them in the refrigerator but not indefinitely. Click here for Urban Home Blog’s recipes for fresh salsa. To make mayonnaise, separate one egg, setting the white aside for another use. Place the yolk into a large bowl and add a pinch of salt. Use a whisk to break up the salted yolk until it begins to increase in volume. As the yolk increases in volume, continue to whisk while adding extra virgin olive oil one drop at a time. Continue whisking while adding oil one drop at a time as the yolk-egg mixture continues to increase in volume until you have a smooth off-white emulsion; typically 1/2 - 2/3 cup of oil total. If desired, season the mayonnaise with fresh garlic, parsley, paprika or a dash of mustard. Use immediately.

CRACKERS, COOKIES AND SNACKS
Basic
1 box saltines
1 – 2 boxes household favorite crackers for snacking/entertaining, such as water, flatbread, etc.
1 jar natural peanut butter, crunchy or smooth
4 – 6 jars assorted household favorite jelly, jam, marmalade and preserves
1 – 2 boxes household favorite cereal or energy bars
1 supply trail mix
1 supply fresh popcorn

Nice to Have
1 supply home-baked cookies
1 jar chocolate-hazelnut spread
1 – 2 jars or tins mixed nuts or a household favorite such as cashews, peanuts, pistachios etc.
1 – 2 boxes microwave popcorn
1 box unflavored gelatin

Specialty
Pretzels, potato chips, corn chips etc. Buy according to household pattern. Store opened bags with chip clips. We like Joie Flip Clips. Packaged snacks grow stale after opening; discard after a few days.

• The availability of packaged sweet goods including cookies and snack cakes and salty snacks in highly individual to each household; it is impossible to account for all possibilities here. In our urban home, we avoid anything whose ingredients include high fructose corn syrup or whose label evidences more ingredients by scientific name than by common name.
• Buy crackers on sale or as needed. As most boxed crackers have a long shelf life, buy in quantity on sale as the opportunity presents, as balanced against household usage. Packaged crackers grown stale after opening; store in plastic zip-top bags for snacking but discard after a few days.
• Whether you are storing home-baked cookies or packaged, store them in a glass (not plastic) container with a tight-fitting lid. Click here for Urban Home Blog’s library of cookie recipes.
• Obtain trail mix or the ingredients for it from the health food store. Whether you are storing pre-packaged trail mix or that you’ve mixed yourself, store it in a glass jar with a tight-fitting lid. Keep a scoop inside the jar, and a supply of small zip-top plastic bags nearby.