Marinated Olives

In the previous column, I wrote about the two lodestars of living in our former hometown of Astoria, New York: Greek culture and the Neptune Diner. These forces meet on the laminated pages of the Neptune's menu - as they should, for one of a diner's responsibilities is showcasing the food of the local populace. Aside from its signature chicken gyro, the Neptune serves a towering omelet of feta and tomatoes, a sizzling skewer of grilled swordfish, a honeyed slab of baklava. And, of course, neither a booth at the 'tune nor any Greek table is complete with a dish of briny olives.

Something Astoria and California share is the importance of olives to local culture, cooking, and commerce. California orchards produce as much as ninety-five percent of the olives that make their way to the American Table. California's fabled microclimate equals the Mediterranean sun and season that are ideal for this crop. In this way, the success of California olive farming parallels the success of that other famous California crop: wine grapes.

Perhaps because they represent abundance, olives are best when shared. A jumble of marinated olives is as much a standard of welcoming guests at a party, on the patio, or in the vineyard as is a hot, gooey artichoke dip. Because they respond so well to preservation, olives are not only one of the earliest snack foods but one of the earliest pantry staples. Marinated olives are a staple in our urban pantry, not only for sharing with guests but for nibbling with lunch or during Happy Hour. We have access to splendid olives year-round in California, so we marinate a batch a few times a year and keep them always accessible in a large jar in the refrigerator. Martini olives are integral to the wet bar. Place them in your bar cooler if you're that swank, or keep them in the fridge with the mixers and the preserved cherries.

There are hundreds of varieties of olives. Commonly available kitchen varieties include, but are not limited to:

• Gaeta (Italian), small black, chewy  and intense
• Kalamata (Greek), medium black, meaty and salty
• Nicoise, Picholine (French), tiny black, fruity and delicate
• Liguria (Italian), small black, firm and briny
• Manzanillo (Spanish) large green, rich and assertive.

While imported olives do exist, they are subject to tax and tariff and other forms of governance including FDA clearance. As a result, like many imported food and drink, imported olives travel through brokers, and their retail cost may reflect this. You will have a better chance of getting imported olives at a Mediterranean or gourmet grocery than at the supermarket. But that's okay, because supermarket olives are great, and there is every likelihood that they were grown and harvested in California.

Marinated Olives

Olives are sold brined in a solution of vinegar, water and salt. In supermarkets, they are sold either from an olive bar, as part of the salad bar or from the deli case. Mediterranean markets may also have fresh olives, which will likely be sold by the branch and have a bright, tart flavor unlike what we're used to from brined olives, or oil-cured olives, which are black olives cured in olive oil rather than brined. Brined, fresh or oil-cured olives will work for these recipes, but the best will be a jumble of mixed olives. 

Most green olives sold in glass jars in the antipasti aisle of the supermarket are acceptable. Avoid all jarred black olives and all canned olives. Canned olives are often tinny and mealy, and often cans and jars labeled as "black" olives are unripe olives that have been treated with lye.

Marinated Olives

1 pound mixed olives

1 strip orange zest

2 sprigs fresh thyme

1 sprig fresh rosemary

1 sprig fresh oregano

1/4 teaspoon coriander seeds

1/4 teaspoon fennel seeds

1/4 teaspoon hot red pepper flakes

Extra-virgin olive oil

Salt

1. Transfer the olives into a colander and quickly rinse them under cool water.
2. Measure the coriander seeds, fennel seeds, hot red pepper flakes and a pinch of salt into a large glass jar with a tight-fitting lid. Pour a two-count of olive oil into the jar; swirl the jar to coat the spices with oil.
3. Add the thyme, rosemary and oregano to the olives in the colander. Use your hands to gently mix the olives and herbs together.
4. Spoon the herbed olive mixture into the jar, stopping when the jar is half full.
5. Drizzle the herbed olive mixture in the jar with olive oil just until coated, typically a five-count.
6. Nestle the strip of orange zest on the oiled herbed olives in the jar.
7. Spoon the rest of the herbed olive mixture from the colander into the jar. Don't be afraid to pack the jar as the olives will settle.
8. Drizzle the herbed olive mixture in the jar with olive oil just until coated, typically a five-count.
9. Place the lid on the jar and gently shake the jar so that the ingredients settle.
10. Refrigerate, checking the jar occasionally to add more oil, herbs or olives as warranted.

Note: Before serving, add a sliced sun-dried tomato, smoked pimiento, or clove of roasted garlic to the serving bowl.

Martini Olives

8 ounces pimento-stuffed green olives

1 strip lemon zest

1 sprig fresh rosemary

1 dried bay leaf

Dry vermouth

Salt

1. Transfer the olives into a colander and quickly rinse them under cool water.
2. Hold the bay leaf over a half-pint canning jar and break it into pieces over the jar. Add the strip of lemon zest and a pinch of salt to the jar.
3. Gently transfer the rinsed olives to the jar. Don't be afraid to pack the jar as the olives will settle.
4. Gently push the rosemary sprig into the jar.
5. Pour 1 tablespoon cold water into the jar.
6. Gently fill the jar just to the top of the olive mixture with dry vermouth.
7. Place the lid and ring on the jar just until tight.
8. Gently shake the jar to distribute the ingredients.
9. Refrigerate the olives to use as needed.

Equipment and Resources

Citrus Zester

Urban Home's Guide to Herbs and Spices