Wheat and Rye Bread

Baking bread at Lammas goes to the heart of the holiday. It is the first harvest of the year, the gathering of wheat. As the first of the three harvests, Lammas presages autumn. The golden heads of cereal grains tell us so. Barley, wheat, rye, oats, rice and maize all stood, stalwart green to soldier brown, in field all summer. Grains mature at Lammas as the sun gains its strength in Leo. Gold is Leo's color, for the sunshine of high summer, for the glint of angled light at sunset, for the lion's mane, and for those golden heads of grain.

In ancient times, grains, notably wheat, were so sacred that the last sheaf of the harvest was not struck by the sickle. It was left standing in field as an offering to the hope of plenty through the upcoming celebrations of the harvest and the lean cold months of winter. Once cereal plants grow their seeds, they die, in a literal and symbolic cycle of the seasonal turning of the wheel. The offering of the last sheaf standing was both in gratitude for life-sustaining grain and as an entreaty, ever respectful, that the next two harvests – Mabon and Samhain – be plentiful. 

At Lammas, nights are arriving noticeably earlier as Mother Earth tilts away from the Solstice towards the Equinox. In the perfect turning of the wheel, the dark half of the year will soon prevail. For now, though, we rest in the golden days of Lammas. This holiday is dedicated to Demeter, Goddess of the grain, whose Roman name Ceres gave cereal plants their collective name. Demeter is depicted as an Earth Mother with Her arms open to spill the abundance that becomes the autumnal cornucopia, with plaits of flaxen hair that reflect golden heads of grain. It is a holiday for dancing in the sunlight that is the counterpoint of the opposite spoke of the wheel: Candlemas, the holiday of candlelight. It is the holiday of the corn dolly, the symbol of female plenty fashioned from corn husks. And it is the holiday of baking breads, in celebration of the gifts of grain. 

In keeping with Lammas traditions, here is the third of three recipes to celebrate these golden days: a hefty, old-world loaf of wheat-rye bread. It is great fun to make bread from scratch, and is a most suitable way to welcome autumn. We serve this bread at breakfast slathered with butter, use it to make a killer turkey sandwich, or place it or the olive bread variation at table to accompany a Sunday Supper of roasted chicken or Boeuf Bourguinonne. 

Wheat and Rye Bread
Active yeast is sold either as cake or as pellets; either will work for this recipe. Check the expiration date on yeast before using it; never use any that is outdated.

2 cups whole wheat flour

1-1/2 cups rye flour

1 package active dry yeast

1-1/2 teaspoons light brown sugar

1-1/2 teaspoons salt

1 tablespoon dried rubbed sage

Extra-virgin olive oil

Make the Sponge

1. Measure 1-1/2 cups filtered water into a sauce pan. Clip a candy thermometer to the side of the pan. Turn the burner to medium.
2. Measure the brown sugar, salt, rubbed sage and 1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil into an extra large mixing bowl.
3. Once the candy thermometer reaches 110 degrees F, no lower and no higher, safely measure 1-1/3 cup warm water into the bowl.
4. Crumble or sprinkle the yeast over the warm water.
5. Use a sturdy wooden or metal spoon to mix the ingredients together.
6. Cover the bowl loosely with a clean tea towel and set aside for 5 minutes.
7. After 5 minutes, uncover the bowl. The sponge should be set nicely, with foamy edges and a distinctive yeasty fragrance.

Make and Knead the Dough

1. Measure the wheat flour into the bowl ½ cup at a time, gently stirring well after each addtion.
2. Measure the rye flour into the bowl ½ cup at a time, gently stirring well after each addition, stopping when the dough fails to absorb any more flour or forms a ball.
3. Sprinkle a bread board with wheat or rye flour.
4. Turn the dough onto the floured bread board.
5. Knead the dough until smooth and elastic, sprinkling with additional flour as the dough becomes sticky, total kneading time approximately 5 minutes.
6. Cover the kneaded dough with the clean tea towel.

Rise and Punch the Dough

1. Wipe out the bowl and pour a 5 count of extra-virgin olive oil around the top inner perimeter of the bowl. Turn the bowl or use a brush to coat the interior of the bowl with olive oil.
2. Uncover the kneaded dough. Shape the dough into a ball, and transfer to the oiled bowl. Turn the ball of dough in the bowl so that it is completely covered with oil.
3. Make a note of how far up the inside of the bowl the dough sits – likely 1/3 to ½ full.
4. Cover the dough with the clean tea towel.
5. Let dough rise, covered, until doubled in bulk, approximately 50 minutes.
6. Sprinkle the bread board with wheat or rye flour.
7. Turn the dough, now doubled in bulk, onto the floured bread board.
8. Use your fist to punch the dough from the top. The dough will deflate; that is okay.
9. Cover the dough with the tea towel. Let the dough rest for 10 minutes.

Bake the Bread

1. Heat oven to 425 degreees F.
2. Pour a 4 count of extra-virgin olive oil into a large rimmed baking sheet. Tilt the sheet or use a pastry brush to coat the interior surface of the baking sheet with olive oil.
3. Transfer the punched and rested dough to the baking sheet. Form the dough into a rough circle.
4. Safely use a sharp knife to slash a square into the top of the circle of dough.
5. Drizzle the dough with extra-virgin olive oil.
6. Bake 10 minutes.
7. Open the oven door and safely sprinkle the bread with a dusting of wheat or rye flour.
8. Bake 20 minutes.
9. Open the over door and safely test the bread for doneness by tapping the top. If the bread sounds hollow, it is done. If the bread feels soft or doesn't make a satisfying thump when tapped, bake for 5 - 10 minutes more.
10. Once the bread is nicely browned and fragrant, and passes the tap test above, remove the bread from the oven. Transfer to a wire rack to cool.

Olive Bread. Pit and snip oil-cured olives to equal 1 cup. Add to the dough after adding the rye flour in Make and Knead the Dough step 2 above. Knead the olives into the dough in step 3 onward.

Resources

Sourdough Bread

Applesauce Bread

Sandwiches