Weeknight Dinner: Chicken with Charmoula
Autumn is rich with the shades of the harvest. Leaves fall in tones of russet, burgundy, espresso, antique
gold. Mabon appears in gardens and on porches as stacks of
pumpkins, heads of cinnamon colored mums, deep orange globes of
Chinese Lantern, black spikes of mondo grass. Arrangements appear on
mantels and tabletops of blond shafts of wheat, velvety spears of
cat's tail, tumbles of warty gourds. Crisp red apples and pale golden
pears fill the counter top fruit bowl, while in the vineyard, the
crush foams deep purple in giant vats. The spectrum of autumn always
returns to the treetops, and from the underside of turning leaves to
sunlight dappling through rustling branches, autumn's true color is
gold.
In celebration of autumn gold and the
spice that accompanies it, here is a weeknight dinner to celebrate
the season with flavor, color, and warmth: chicken breasts gently
poached in wine, served with Charmoula and saffron rice. This meal is
suitable for weeknight dinner but special enough for weekend entertaining. This weeknight dinner takes its inspiration from
ingredients and dishes typical to many American kitchens but not
common to all of them. As autumn is also the season of back to school, it is appropriate to cook meals about which some learning is
due, whether the travel is of the armchair or at the dining room table.
Charmoula is a common preparation in
North African cooking, notably Moroccan. It is a very spicy mixture
of tomatoes, herbs, and spices used as a
marinade or served as a table condiment. Don't neglect dragging your
bread through it, but our Charmoula is a streamlined version served
as a sauce over simple poached chicken. The meal is served with
golden rice studded with orange threads of saffron for a meal steeped
in the spice of Mediterranean tables, a feast on the palate as warm
as the palette of autumn colors.
Chicken with Charmoula
Saffron is sold in boxes or vials of
threads located in the spice- or Spanish grocery aisle of the
supermarket. It typically costs between five and ten dollars; one
such supply will make this dish three times. This recipe serves two;
it can be doubled.
For the chicken
2 boneless chicken breasts, 6 – 8
ounces each
Dry Vermouth or semi-dry white wine such as Chardonnay
Fresh cilantro and parsley (see below)
For the rice
½ cup rice, Basmati
1 cup chicken stock
Unsalted butter
Saffron
Salt
For the Charmoula
1/2 cup tomato sauce
1 lemon
1 bunch fresh cilantro, rinsed and patted dry
1 bunch fresh parsley, rinsed and patted dry
2 - 3 cloves cloves garlic
3 teaspoons extra-virgin olive oil
1 tablespoon ground cumin
1 teaspoon hot paprika
1/2 teaspoon ground cayenne pepper
1/2 teaspoon table salt
Several grindings of fresh black pepper.
Make the Charmoula
- Peel, pith and press the garlic to equal 1 tablespoon. Measure into a small mixing bowl.
- Cut and press the lemon through a fine mesh sieve to equal 3 tablespoons; measure into the mixing bowl with the garlic.
- Measure the cumin, paprika, cayenne, table salt, black pepper, and olive oil into the mixing bowl. Mix the spices, lemon, garlic, and olive oil until the mixture forms a thick, fragrant paste.
- Safely use a knife to cut off about the top quarter of each bunch of herbs. Rough-cut the herbs to equal 1/2 cup packed. Transfer the chopped parsley/cilantro mixture to the bowl containing the spice paste.
- Measure the tomato sauce into the bowl containing the spice and herb mixture. Mix thoroughly.
- Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate until ready to serve.
- Trim each chicken breast to be of uniform size and thickness.
- Place several sprigs of parsley and cilantro into a saute pan.
- Gently nestle the chicken breasts, smooth side down, onto the fresh parsley and cilantro.
- Pour enough wine / vermouth into the pan to reach 1/2 up the side of the chicken breasts.
- Cover the saute pan. Turn the burner to low.
- Poach the chicken until cooked through and silken, about 25 minutes.
- Place a pat of unsalted butter into a sauce pan with a tight-fitting lid.
- Remove a nice pinch of saffron from its container. Sprinkle the saffron across the sauce pan. Add a pinch of salt to the sauce pan.
- Measure the rice into the saucepan. Shake the pan gently to distribute the rice, saffron, and salt evenly.
- Gently pour the chicken stock down the side of the pan. Gently swirl the mixture together.
- Cover the pan. Turn the burner to low. Cook the rice, gently shaking the pan occasionally, until the rice is cooked through and very fragrant, approximately 25 minutes.
- Place a scoop of saffron rice into the center of a plate or deep bowl.
- Use tongs to remove a chicken breast from the poaching liquid and hold it over the pan for a moment to express excess liquid.
- Nestle the chicken breast onto the rice. Sprinkle the chicken with a dash of salt and several grindings of fresh pepper.
- Serve immediately, passing the Charmoula at the table.
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