Kielbasa with Sauerkraut and Apples
Memories of my Swiss grandmother are grey and dim. I can see the black humpback of an old-fashioned coupé. I hear the gravel crunch as the car lumbered across the driveway. I see a round figure in skirts being helped onto the running board by the outstretched hands of the menfolk. I still sense the delicate reverence as she, mother of sons from the old country, was guided gently across the gravel and into the house.
Her name was Clara and, as recounted during family histories
at cookouts and holidays, she was a jovial, delicate woman. She
and her husband were first generation American, having settled in the
Chicago area where they raised a family of four children during the World War
Two era. Due to the war, American prejudices made it a time and place
difficult to be Germanic. Not uncommon amongst immigrants, they both clung to
their new identities as Americans but trusted the Melting
Pot to welcome their practices from the old world. As always, one of the
most enduring was food. On family visits to the Chicago households of
aunts Ruthie and Clara, we were treated to strudel
and palmiers, and tricked
by braunschweiger and blood sausage.
I remember having sauerkraut and apples at gatherings
from family reunions to funerals.
Someone always brought it, and among the more exotic offerings at this Swiss
table, this dish was the favorite that my brothers and I seized upon. This
isn’t the sauerkraut and sausage of the local wurst
haus, nor is it the French classic Choucrôute
Garni. This dish displays a lightness of touch typical of Swiss
cooking across the French
cantons. I wish I could say I had my grandmother’s
definitive recipe, handwritten
in brown ink on a card with a floral border, in the same halting English and
florid Franglais with which she spoke, but this recipe is based upon kitchen wizardry
and memory. It evokes memories buried deeper than the Alpine snow, of the warming
fireside in a chalet, of the chafing dish in a ski lodge. It is ideal for
winter and early spring, but my favorite time to serve sauerkraut and apples is
autumn, where it harmonizes with the cozy vibe in the air, a cold pumpkin
ale, a warming cup of cider.
As an obedient Swiss boy should, I offer here my recipe
for sauerkraut and kielbasa, dedicated to Grandmother Clara’s memory across the
shadows
and shrouds of lineage that go back centuries. I take legacy very
seriously, keeping generational history alive through the act I know right down
to my DNA
generations of grandmothers have always held sacred: feeding hungry people
good food as an act of love.
Kielbasa
with Sauerkraut and Green Apple
Roasting
the kielbasa in a small amount water preserves the smoky flavor, while
finishing in the hot oven provides a crispy skin. The fennel
seed speaks to the Alsatian provenance of this preparation, but you can use
the more familiar caraway seeds.
1 1-lb.
ring Polska Kielbasa
1 lb.
sauerkraut
1 large
green apple, peeled and cored
½ cup
yellow onion, chopped fine
¼ cup
dry Vermouth, plus more as needed
2
tablespoons unsalted butter, plus more as needed
2
teaspoons fennel seeds, divided
Freshly
ground black pepper
Salt
For the
sauerkraut
- Place the sauerkraut into a colander. Rinse lightly with cold water. Use your hands to squeeze the sauerkraut dry of excess water. Leave the sauerkraut in the water to drain while you prepare the onion and apple.
- Cut each piece of the peeled and cored apple into thin slices. Cut each slice longwise into matchsticks.
- Melt two tablespoons butter in a medium dutch oven or large saucepan set over medium heat. Once the butter foams, add the chopped onion and sauté until the onion is soft, about 1 – 2 minutes. Add the apple and mix in the pan with the onion. Add the vermouth to the pan and mix to combine.
- Add the sauerkraut to the pan. Sprinkle the mixture with 1 teaspoon fennel seeds and a pinch of salt. Stir the mixture together.
- Cover and turn the heat to low. Check the sauerkraut about every 15 minutes to stir it. Add a splash of Vermouth or a pat of butter if the mixture runs dry.
- Cook until velvety and soft, about 40 minutes. Once cooked, taste for seasoning. Add freshly ground pepper or 1 tsp fennel seeds to taste.
For the
Kielbasa
- Turn the oven to 350 degrees.
- Use a fork to poke the kielbasa all over. Place the kielbasa in a baking dish. Add ¼ cup water to the baking dish.
- Cover the baking dish with its lid or a double layer of aluminum foil, crimped tightly around the rim of the dish.
- Roast kielbasa for 15 minutes. At the 15-minute mark, carefully (it will be steamy!) remove the lid / foil and roast for 5 – 10 minutes until the skin is crispy.
- Remove dish from oven and set aside to cool. Once cool enough to touch, use tongs to remove the kielbasa from the dish. Use the tongs and a strong knife to cut the kielbasa into 2-inch pieces.
Serve
the meal
- Transfer the sauerkraut to a serving platter. Arrange the kielbasa around the sauerkraut. Serve with brown bread, mustard, and a sweet fruit compote such as Tutti Frutti or Red Hots.
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