Baked Apple Tarts

Pumpkin gets the press (and the majority of the groceries in the seasonal aisle), but the true taste of autumn is a crisp, sweet apple. Apples are ripe for picking as autumn arrives, so along with grapes, pears, and, yes, pumpkins, apples are the core (sorry) of the Mabon harvest. We gather them by bushels on weekend leafing trips, perhaps destination cider mill. That sip of cider produces a cozy shudder against brisk autumn breezes, while cider jelly tops our toast on blustery mornings. As apples are an abundant species, we can them to preserve their sweetness as jelly, pie filling, applesauce, apple butter, and we dry them for granola. But the truest experience of an apple is a bite of one fresh from the tree, sweet or tart as is your pleasure.

Try telling that to bakers. Bakers fold apples into crusts from pie to turnover, tuck apples into coffee cakes and fan them across flans, bake apples in plump halves in tartes tartins or paper thin slices in puff pastry. Autumn has not arrived an many a grandmother's kitchen until a hefty apple cake appears, under a dome as a spicy applesauce cake or fresh from the oven as a German apple pancake. Gelled apples fill cookies from individual foldovers to a pan of apple bars. At least one autumn morning calls for an apple cider doughnut (or two) along with our coffee. And of course nothing beats the most fundamental apple dessert of all: simple baked apples.

Apples, one of the most ancient species on earth, have been a symbol of abundance, love, and happiness since the times of earliest civilization. Cut open crossways, an apple reveals in each half a pointed star, the symbol of magic. As we celebrate the autumn harvest by partaking in it, let us take a moment to reflect upon the gifts of Mother Earth. Let us consider the apple not just for the happiness it brings us but for the promise of the seeds of future harvest contained in its very core.

Apples speak to the satisfaction of simplicity and to the possibilities of abundance. For the next two columns, I'll share two recipes for favorite ways to bake with apples during this time of their abundance. To begin, here is my original recipe for baked apple tarts. These pastries are simple and slightly decadent, mingling fresh apples, applesauce, and apple brandy in a buttery, sugary shell. They are a delightful treat for coffee hour, but special enough for a nice dessert after an autumn dinner of roasted pork and vegetables or cider-braised chicken.

Baked Apple Tarts

Coarse baking sugar is a large crystal sugar, light brown in color. It is usually available in the baking aisle of the supermarket. Store it in a glass or ceramic jar with tight-fitting lid as described in our guide to the baking pantry, but set some aside to try in hot coffee or tea.

For the crust

1-1/4 cups all purpose flour plus extra for rolling

1/2 teaspoon table salt

11/2 teaspoon baking powder

1 stick unsalted butter, plus more for baking sheet

1/4 cup cold water

For the filling

1 pound sweet baking apples such as Fuji, Honeycrisp, Red Delicious, or Braeburn

1/2 cup applesauce

2 tablespoons Calvados

3 tablespoons white sugar, plus extra for dusting

1 teaspoon ground cinnamon, plus extra for dusting

1 large egg

Coarse baking sugar

Optional: ground pecans, pistachios, or almonds

Prepare the crust

1. Cut a piece of parchment paper to fit a large (18 x 26) rimmed baking sheet. You may have to place two pieces of paper to cover the surface of the baking sheet. Butter the parchment paper and set the baking sheet aside.
2. Place 1 stick butter into a large mixing bowl. Set aside to soften.
3. Measure the flour, salt and baking powder into a bowl. Whisk the dry ingredients together.
4. Once the butter is workable, no more than 5 minutes, transfer the dry ingredients into the bowl containing the butter. Use a pastry blender to incorporate the butter into the dry ingredients until the mixture resembles small crumbs.
5. Sprinkle the dough with 1 tablespoon ice water.
6. Sprinkle your hands with flour. Use the heel of your palm to gently bring the mixture in the bowl together, gently folding the dough up and over, sprinkling the dough with scant tablespoons of water as needed. Work just until the mixture comes together.
7. Gently transfer the dough to a floured rolling surface.  Sprinkle the dough lightly with flour. Starting at the center of the ball of dough and rolling outwards, roll the remaining dough half in four directions corresponding to 12, 3, 6 and 9 on the face of a clock. Roll the dough into a rectangle about 1/4 inch thick.
8. Cut the rectangle in half lengthwise and the long halves in half crossways to form quarters. It is okay if the edges are not perfect.
9. Transfer the rectangles to the baking sheet. Place the baking sheet in the refrigerator while you prepare the apple filling.

Prepare the filling

1. Place a colander on a plate.
2. Mix the white sugar and the cinnamon together.
3. For each apple, peel the apple, safely cut the apple from stem to blossom end to form halves. Safely cut out the seeds and core from each apple half. Cut each apple half into segments about 1/4 thick, following the natural curve of the apple. Place the peeled, cored and seeded apple quarters into the colander as you go. 
4. Drizzle the apples with the Calvados. Gently turn the apples so that they are coated with the Calvados. It is okay if the mixture begins to drip through the colander.
5. Sprinkle the brandied apples with the cinnamon-sugar mixture. Gently turn the apples so that they are coated with the sugar. It is okay if the mixtures drips through the colander.

Prepare and bake the tarts

1. Position a rack in the center of the oven and turn the oven to 450 degrees F.
2. Remove the baking sheet from the refrigerator.
3. Measure 2 tablespoons of applesauce into the center of each rectangle of dough. If there is any applesauce remaining, divide that among the four rectangles.
4. Use the back of a spoon to spread the applesauce into a circle in the center of each rectangle, approximately 4 inches wide.
5. Divide the brandied apples among the four tarts by mounding the apples into the center of the circle made by the applesauce.
6. Gently bring up the four corners of each rectangle, to form a pocket. It is okay if the corners don't meet exactly. Gently bring up the sides of each rectangle to form a purse.
7. Use your hands to gently press the pastries against the filling so that each pastry keeps its shape. Gently press any tears and edges together along the pastry, but leave the centers open. If necessary, trim or fold back extra dough so that the pastry holds its shape with an open center.
8. Place the formed pastries into the refrigerator for 10 minutes.
9. After 10 minutes, crack the egg into a bowl and whisk it until it is golden. Add 1 tablespoon water to the egg and whisk to incorporate.
10. Remove the baking sheet from the refrigerator. Use a pastry brush to thoroughly cover the side of each pastry with a light layer of egg wash. It may not be necessary to use all of the egg wash.
11. Dot the center of each pastry with unsalted butter. Add a sprinkle of ground nuts if using to the center.
12. Lightly sprinkle each pastry lightly with coarse sugar so that the crystals cling to the egg wash.
13. Place the pastries into the oven. Bake at 450 degrees F for 20 minutes. After 20 minutes, reduce heat to 350 degrees F and bake for 20 - 25 minutes, until the pastries are golden and fragrant and the apple filling is soft and bubbly.
14. Allow the pastries to cool before serving.

Resources

Urban Home Blog's recipe for applesauce

Urban Home Blog's guide to the baking pantry