Weeknight Dinner: Risotto with Mushrooms
As I've noted before, one of the interesting things about food writing is the exchanges between writers and readers and cooks and eaters about who doesn't like to eat what. How many spirited conversations I have had with friends, colleagues, compatriots and e-acquaintances about food likes and dislikes. One friend can preach for ten minutes about the evils of beets; which is the next person's cue to volley back concerning salmon cakes. In a not uncommon prejudice, one person cannot even consider eating eggs. At least three people I know inexplicably don't like olives (don't worry; I forgive them), and at least one unfathomably doesn't like cucumbers (I'm working on it). And food prejudice is often situational: one friend cannot abide cooked bell peppers, but I can confirm with authority that he doesn't mind them in spaghetti sauce.
For me, it's mushrooms. I'll spare you my sermon on the subject, but, discordantly for someone who is strongly influenced by French cooking, I find it very difficult to be equitable regarding mushrooms. I understand that they're important to many cuisines and I understand why: they are abundantly available in a wide variety of tastes and textures, and they impart a rich, velvety flavor to dishes that is virtually the definition of umami, or at least the definition of what sets off umami's bells and buzzers.
So for years I have tried to make friends with mushrooms. Because I can appreciate the flavor they impart, when called for I cook with them and then just pick them out of my portion. I add them to a pan sauce for steak, to a house-staple stir fry, to soups and stews that would not be the same without them. Imagine my pleasure to discover the number of dishes from a variety of cuisines that utilize the complex flavors of mushrooms, without their rubbery little selves getting involved any more aggressively than that.
One such is risotto, the classic northern Italian dish in which rice is slow cooked in an enriched liquid. Specific varieties of rice are essential for risotto: the two most common are Carnaroli and Arborio. These short grains release their starch during the cooking process to form the correct texture for the finished dish: a thick, creamy base in which the grains are tender but toothsome and retain their shape.
Mushrooms are one of the traditional enrichments for a basic risotto, especially porcini, the fat-bottomed mushrooms that are part of the fall harvest. Mushrooms got married to risotto as a result of that harvest: mushrooms dry easily, and so dried mushrooms became a pantry staple not just in Italian homesteads but eastern European and Asian ones as well. Thus a bowl of risotto, hot from the grate and embellished with the woodsy taste and aroma of some of those reconstituted porcini, became a staple weeknight dinner.
In that spirit, as well as that of being ecumenical towards this powerhouse of an ingredient, here is my recipe for risotto with mushrooms. Dried porcini enrich the stock with which you make the risotto, which is then topped with a sauteed tumble of the day's best fresh mushrooms and a kiss of truffle oil. Serve it with a plate of salumi or, if you want your greens, an herb salad.
RISOTTO WITH MUSHROOMS
Dried porcini have become widely available; look for them in cellophane bags among the Italian, Asian or eastern European ingredients, or order online. Fresh mushrooms should display tight caps and be free from discoloration; they should give off an earthy aroma without sourness. Ask the grocer which mushrooms are best that day and get a mixture of those; I have had good results with shiitaki, chanterelle, oyster, cremini, trumpet and even enoki. White truffle oil is a worthwhile splurge; a small vial doesn't cost that much and will keep indefinitely; check the label to be sure you're buying the real thing and not one of the metallic-tasting fakes.
1 32-ounce container low-sodium chicken stock (Swanson's works well)
1 package dried porcini mushrooms
1 bay leaf
1 small onion
1/2 cup dry white wine
1 cup rice for risotto (typically Carnaroli or Arborio)
1/2 pound mixed fresh mushrooms
5 tablespoons unsalted butter
Extra-virgin olive oil
White truffle oil
Salt (Greek sea salt works well
Freshly ground black pepper
1. Pour the chicken stock into a large saucepan. Add the bay leaf and heat on low.
2. Open the package of dried porcini and pick out two or three of the biggest pieces. Rinse under cool water to remove debris if any. Coarsely chop into bite-sized pieces and add to the stock.
3. Peel the onion and remove the root and stem ends. Halve the onion from root to stem; halve each half. Cut each quarter into crescents and then cut across the crescents to dice.
4. Place a large saute or saucepan over medium heat. Add one tablespoon of the butter and a three-count drizzle of olive oil. Add the onion and stir to combine. Cook, stirring occasionally, until onion is translucent, approximately five minutes.
5. Meanwhile, brush the fresh mushrooms with a mushroom brush or a soft toothbrush to remove debris if any. Use a paring knife to remove the calloused end from the bottom of each mushroom. Cut larger mushrooms into quarters.
6. Once the onion for the risotto is ready, add the rice to the pan. Swirl the rice in the pan to coat with the oil and the onion. Cook one minute.
7. Add the wine to the pan and cook, stirring, until the wine is almost completely absorbed, about one minute.
8. Measure one cup of the flavor-infused stock into the risotto and cook, stirring occasionally, until stock is almost completely absorbed, approximately five minutes. Continue to add stock one cup at a time, stirring occasionally, waiting until stock is almost completely absorbed before adding more. The total cooking time should be approximately 25 minutes. Though it is okay if some of the reconstituted porcini are included, do not include the bay leaf. Do not ladle from the bottom of the pan where there will be some sediment.
9. When the risotto is close to being done (approximately 20 minutes), place a non-stick skillet over medium-high heat. Add the remaining four tablespoons butter and swirl to melt. Add the fresh mushrooms; season with salt and freshly ground black pepper. Saute, stirring frequently, until the mushrooms soften and give off their aroma and liquor, approximately 5 minutes.
10. Place a swirl of white truffle oil in the bottom of each of four serving bowls. Top with risotto and sauteed mushrooms. Serve.
For me, it's mushrooms. I'll spare you my sermon on the subject, but, discordantly for someone who is strongly influenced by French cooking, I find it very difficult to be equitable regarding mushrooms. I understand that they're important to many cuisines and I understand why: they are abundantly available in a wide variety of tastes and textures, and they impart a rich, velvety flavor to dishes that is virtually the definition of umami, or at least the definition of what sets off umami's bells and buzzers.
So for years I have tried to make friends with mushrooms. Because I can appreciate the flavor they impart, when called for I cook with them and then just pick them out of my portion. I add them to a pan sauce for steak, to a house-staple stir fry, to soups and stews that would not be the same without them. Imagine my pleasure to discover the number of dishes from a variety of cuisines that utilize the complex flavors of mushrooms, without their rubbery little selves getting involved any more aggressively than that.
One such is risotto, the classic northern Italian dish in which rice is slow cooked in an enriched liquid. Specific varieties of rice are essential for risotto: the two most common are Carnaroli and Arborio. These short grains release their starch during the cooking process to form the correct texture for the finished dish: a thick, creamy base in which the grains are tender but toothsome and retain their shape.
Mushrooms are one of the traditional enrichments for a basic risotto, especially porcini, the fat-bottomed mushrooms that are part of the fall harvest. Mushrooms got married to risotto as a result of that harvest: mushrooms dry easily, and so dried mushrooms became a pantry staple not just in Italian homesteads but eastern European and Asian ones as well. Thus a bowl of risotto, hot from the grate and embellished with the woodsy taste and aroma of some of those reconstituted porcini, became a staple weeknight dinner.
In that spirit, as well as that of being ecumenical towards this powerhouse of an ingredient, here is my recipe for risotto with mushrooms. Dried porcini enrich the stock with which you make the risotto, which is then topped with a sauteed tumble of the day's best fresh mushrooms and a kiss of truffle oil. Serve it with a plate of salumi or, if you want your greens, an herb salad.
RISOTTO WITH MUSHROOMS
Dried porcini have become widely available; look for them in cellophane bags among the Italian, Asian or eastern European ingredients, or order online. Fresh mushrooms should display tight caps and be free from discoloration; they should give off an earthy aroma without sourness. Ask the grocer which mushrooms are best that day and get a mixture of those; I have had good results with shiitaki, chanterelle, oyster, cremini, trumpet and even enoki. White truffle oil is a worthwhile splurge; a small vial doesn't cost that much and will keep indefinitely; check the label to be sure you're buying the real thing and not one of the metallic-tasting fakes.
1 32-ounce container low-sodium chicken stock (Swanson's works well)
1 package dried porcini mushrooms
1 bay leaf
1 small onion
1/2 cup dry white wine
1 cup rice for risotto (typically Carnaroli or Arborio)
1/2 pound mixed fresh mushrooms
5 tablespoons unsalted butter
Extra-virgin olive oil
White truffle oil
Salt (Greek sea salt works well
Freshly ground black pepper
1. Pour the chicken stock into a large saucepan. Add the bay leaf and heat on low.
2. Open the package of dried porcini and pick out two or three of the biggest pieces. Rinse under cool water to remove debris if any. Coarsely chop into bite-sized pieces and add to the stock.
3. Peel the onion and remove the root and stem ends. Halve the onion from root to stem; halve each half. Cut each quarter into crescents and then cut across the crescents to dice.
4. Place a large saute or saucepan over medium heat. Add one tablespoon of the butter and a three-count drizzle of olive oil. Add the onion and stir to combine. Cook, stirring occasionally, until onion is translucent, approximately five minutes.
5. Meanwhile, brush the fresh mushrooms with a mushroom brush or a soft toothbrush to remove debris if any. Use a paring knife to remove the calloused end from the bottom of each mushroom. Cut larger mushrooms into quarters.
6. Once the onion for the risotto is ready, add the rice to the pan. Swirl the rice in the pan to coat with the oil and the onion. Cook one minute.
7. Add the wine to the pan and cook, stirring, until the wine is almost completely absorbed, about one minute.
8. Measure one cup of the flavor-infused stock into the risotto and cook, stirring occasionally, until stock is almost completely absorbed, approximately five minutes. Continue to add stock one cup at a time, stirring occasionally, waiting until stock is almost completely absorbed before adding more. The total cooking time should be approximately 25 minutes. Though it is okay if some of the reconstituted porcini are included, do not include the bay leaf. Do not ladle from the bottom of the pan where there will be some sediment.
9. When the risotto is close to being done (approximately 20 minutes), place a non-stick skillet over medium-high heat. Add the remaining four tablespoons butter and swirl to melt. Add the fresh mushrooms; season with salt and freshly ground black pepper. Saute, stirring frequently, until the mushrooms soften and give off their aroma and liquor, approximately 5 minutes.
10. Place a swirl of white truffle oil in the bottom of each of four serving bowls. Top with risotto and sauteed mushrooms. Serve.
I'm with you, except I can't stand the taste, smell or texture of them and can't/won't eat anything with mushrooms cooked in it, unless the other flavors are strong enough to mask the mushroom flavor.
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