Urban Pantry: Herbs and Spices

photo: Eric Diesel

The earth spins and the harvest continues. After August's sunny bounty, these few weeks in September leading to the equinox bring the autumn harvest. Apples appear by the bag and the bushel; sweet in lunch boxes, spicy between pie crusts, amber in jelly jars. Pears appear in fruit bowls and tart shells. The first of the winter squash is coming in: honeyed butternut, crenellated pattypan, even early pumpkins. By this time next month, every mantel and doorstep will wear their finery, and every stovetop and oven will be abubble with it.

As the harvest connects us to the earth by gifting us with food, we are drawn back in time by the act of slowing down for reflection upon the passage of time. To many, this is why the season of early autumn is also the period of the harvesting of herbs. While herbs are harvested throughout the year, many of them come of age during this period that is equal parts balance and shift. This befits the qualities of herbs, which are helpful and useful but also mysterious and powerful. And it befits the qualities of the autumn harvest, because the act of harvesting herbs is contemplative, and in some cultures and religions, sacred.

While herbs are cultivated and used for purposes medicinal and magical, culinary herbs are invaluable in the kitchen. And in no season do they more like to contribute to the cook's efforts than autumn. An autumn pork roast is not the same without a bed of astringent rosemary. Both beef stew and roasted chicken demand the hearty, woodsy quality of fresh thyme, and what is Thanksgiving's roast turkey without sage and bay leaves? Lest you think that summery herbs have no place in the autumn kitchen, as grandmothers pioneered and sous chefs were quick to pick up on, that bowl of soup made from the leftover roasted bird is best served with a fragrant fall of fresh dill.

Most cooks agree that most herbs -- which for culinary purposes are the stems and leaves of edible plants other than grains, fruits or vegetables -- are best used fresh. And for many herbs, that is true. However, I have found that some dried herbs do work well in some dishes, and more to the point, I don't believe I know a single cook who doesn't use dried herbs at least sometimes. Spices, by contrast, are the seeds, roots, pods, bark, stamens or other parts of edible plants. To be usable, spices have to be dried. Once dried, they are often ground.

Spices and dried herbs lose their potency during storage -- most last a year at longest.  So as fresh and dried herbs become available at herb shops, in farmers markets, and from our own gardens, autumn is an ideal time to replenish the spice and herb rack. I keep a stash of herb and spice lists in a slipsheet inside the cupboard door. I can mark up the list on market day, knowing what I will need for the next week's or month's cooking. Here is my list of herbs and spices for the urban pantry. If you would like a free, printable copy, click here. However you use it, I hope this herb and spice list helps you welcome these wonderful, invaluable workers into your own kitchen magic.

HERBS AND SPICES

Herbs
Herbs are organized by those to always use fresh, those to usually use fresh (depending on season or recipe), and those to keep in supply in dried form.

Herbs -- Always fresh
Basil
Chervil
Cilantro
Dill
Garnish leaves (bay, citrus, curry)
Lemongrass
Mint
Rosemary

Herbs -- Usually fresh; consult recipe
Bay leaves
Chives
Marjoram
Oregano
Parsley
Sage
Savory
Tarragon
Thyme

Herbs – Dried
Bay leaves
Chives
Oregano
Parsley
Rubbed sage
Savory
Tarragon
Thyme

Spices
Spices are organized by those essential to a well-stocked pantry, those nice to have, and those essential to specific dishes or cuisines. With some exceptions (noted), it is best to buy whole spices and grate or grind them fresh.

Spices -- Essential
Cassia/cinnamon (ground)
Cloves (whole)
Ginger (ground)
Hungarian hot paprika
Nutmeg (whole)
Saffron

Spices – Nice to have
Allspice berries
Anise seeds
Annatto seeds
Cardamom pods
Celery seeds
Comino (either ground or cumin seeds)
Coriander
Dill seeds
Fennel seeds
Mustard (ground)
Mustard seeds (black)
Onion seeds
Poppy seeds
Sesame seeds (white and black)
Spanish smoked paprika
Star anise
Turmeric

Spices -- Dedicated use; consult recipe
Chamomile leaves
Fenugreek
Juniper berries
Lavender
Mace
Sumac

Salt, Peppers and Mixes
I have not included some spice mixes such as za'atar, garam masala or chili seasoning as these are best made at the time of preparing dishes that use them.

Salts
Greek sea salt
Grey sea salt
Kosher salt
Table Salt

Peppercorns
Black peppercorns
White or green peppercorns
Szechuan peppercorns
or
Peppercorn melange

Chilis
Ancho chili powder
Chipotle chili powder
Ground cayenne pepper
Red pepper flakes

Seasoning Mixes
Bell’s Seasoning
Five Spice Powder
Herbes des Provences
Italian Seasoning
Madras curry powder
Old Bay Seasoning
Pickling Spice
Shichimi
Steak Rub

It is satisfying to dry your own herbs, but if you can, befriend a good local herb shop that dries its own herbs from healthy, happy plants on the premises, or sources from reputable dealers. In New York City, the venerable Aphrodisia finally lost its battle against the gentrification of Bleecker Street, but Penzeys is a good online source.