Pumpkin Waffles
We used to call it “autumn,” but
this time of year seems to be rapidly becoming, at least amongst
consumers, pumpkin spice season. Aside from the phenomenon of the
pumpkin spice latte, pumpkin spice flavors and fragrances have taken
over groceries, home goods, and even makeup. On a recent trip to the grocery store I clocked: pumpkin spice waffles, pancakes, sweet
rolls, doughnuts, toaster pastries, quick breads, cookies, coffee,
tea, creamer, ice cream, multiple kinds of cereal hot and cold, beer,
liqueur, cider, cream cheese, hummus, salsa, corn chips, chocolates,
fruit butter, fruit leather, power bars, soup, braising sauce, baking
mixes, and bagels.
As discussed in my column about pumpkin groceries, pumpkin spice doesn't really taste like pumpkin; it is a
warm cinnamon-based flavor reminiscent of baked goods. On its own,
pumpkin has the somewhat bland flavor of the winter squash that it
is, somewhere between cabocha, butternut, and acorn. Of them, pumpkin
is the most cultivated for both table and field, as it is popular and
easy to grow, and therefore profitable. There is a lot of folklore
around pumpkins which no doubt accounts to some degree for their
popularity, especially during this time of year. But pumpkin is a
vegetable that plays well with other flavors and ingredients, and
that versatility is the true source of its popularity with cooks,
diners, and drinkers.
As autumn settles into its depth, here
is the first of two recipes – one sweet, one savory -- that take
advantage of the versatility, popularity, and prevalence of pumpkins:
pumpkin waffles. They are lightly spiced to showcase pumpkin's flavor
and texture, and paired with another rich combination of flavors:
honey butter. These waffles are a delight to wake up to on a crisp
autumn weekend. They are substantial enough to serve with nothing
more than hot coffee and, if you wish, maple syrup, but to augment
your breakfast waffles, click here to learn how to cook eggs.
Pumpkin Waffles
Be sure to get canned pumpkin puree and
not pumpkin pie filling; the label should state 100% pure pumpkin
with no fillers such as other squashes. To learn the waffle iron I
use in my urban kitchen, click here.
This recipe serves four.
For the waffles
2 cups all-purpose flour
½ cup light brown sugar, firmly packed
2-½ teaspoons baking powder
3 large eggs
1 cup pumpkin puree
¼ cup ground pecans or hazelnuts
1 cup whole milk
½ cup unsalted butter, melted
2 teaspoons ground cinnamon
½ teaspoon ground nutmeg
½ teaspoon ground allspice
¼ teaspoon Salt
For the honey butter
1 stick unsalted butter, softened
¼ cup honey
Dash ground cinnamon
Make the honey butter
- Use a wire whisk to whisk the butter until smooth and creamy. Drizzle the honey into the creamed butter while whisking the creamed butter. Add a dash of cinnamon to the mixture.
- Vigorously whisk the honeyed butter until it emulsifies. Transfer to a serving dish and refrigerate, covered, until ready to serve.
- Measure the flour, baking powder, spices and salt into a large bowl.
- Add the ground pecans / hazelnuts to the bowl. Crumble the brown sugar into the bowl.
- Stir the dry ingredients together, taking care to break up the sugar.
- Measure the pumpkin puree into a large measuring cup with a spout. Break the eggs into the puree and whisk the mixture together until smooth.
- Measure the milk into the pumpkin-egg mixture. Whisk the mixture together until smooth.
- Use a silicon spatula to transfer the pumpkin mixture into the bowl containing the dry ingredients. Whisk the mixture together until well-incorporated.
Note: the waffle iron will get very
hot. It is essential to work safely with it.
- Heat a waffle iron according to the appliance directions.
- Once the iron is ready, whisk the melted butter into the batter.
- Measure ½ – ¾ cup batter onto the hot plate of the waffle iron (the exact measure will depend upon the appliance).
- Close the lid of the iron and cook the waffle according to the appliance directions, typically 4 – 6 minutes.
- Safely remove each cooked waffle with a silicon spatula. Serve immediately with honeyed butter and, if you wish, maple syrup.
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